无论是安装在现有独特的墙壁组件上的房子包装
I purchased a home two years ago (Climate Zone 5) that was built as a passive solar home in 1985-86. I add this detail, because it may explain some of the unique wall assemblies.
The basement (from interior to exterior) is 12” block, core filled, with 6” of “Dow Blue Rigid Foam Board” on the exterior, below grade.
北，东部和西墙以上（从内部到外部）是8“块芯填充，6英寸的”Dow Blue刚性泡沫板“，以及带玻璃纤维BATT的2×4螺纹墙（捆绑到块）绝缘和¾“胶合板护套。胶合板有焦油纸和原始雪松壁板。
南墙主要是窗户，由½“胶合板护套，2×4螺柱墙上的内部到外部，带有”Dow蓝色刚性泡沫板“的螺柱，2英寸的”Dow Blue刚性泡沫板“连续绝缘和¾“胶合板护套。胶合板有焦油纸和原始雪松壁板。
After living in the home for a year, I found the home to be quite drafty. I had a blower door test done and found that almost all of the windows had severe air leaks.
现在我的问题，我正在取代原来的雪松壁板和窗户。我的初步思想是用Tyvek House包装包裹外部护套，并使用他们的系统来闪光窗口。然而，在阅读GBA上几篇文章后，我担心可能的凝结问题。我应该担心包装房子包装的墙壁吗？
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答复
Interesting house you have there.
House wrap is a waterproof, but vapor permeable material, so condensation is not specifically a concern with that material. It's purpose is to be a water resistant barrier.
您的组装外部有刚性泡沫，这是一个潜在的冷凝表面，因为它不是蒸汽渗透的。在第5区，您希望外部刚性泡沫占总R值的至少40％，似乎有可能从您所描述的内容中获得。
您的墙应提供以下功能：
1）空中障碍 - 这是第一步，定义空中屏障是什么。这可能是您的外部护套或室内干墙（声音，您也有内部护套）。随着所有的壁炉，您可能会胶带胶带。在密封一切以及尽可能守它之前，您可以使用鼓风机门。
2) Vapor barrier - Limits moisture vapor movement through the wall. Your foam should do this well.
3) Bulk water management - This is the house wrap and integrated flashing for all penetrations. The goal is to keep outside water out of the wall assembly. There are fully adhered house wraps that can be used to accomplish 1 and 3 together.
Tyvek是蒸气渗透的，你将没有它的冷凝问题。虽然Dupot的人们称之为空中障碍，但很难将其细节如此。
由于您的大问题是空气泄漏，因此最好的位置可以粘贴蜂窝护套的接缝，并胶带窗户/门。确保毕竟进行鼓风机门测试以确认在重新铺板之前固定泄漏。
Hi Kyle,
随着Matt和Akos的说法，您的问题的简单答案是：否，您不应该关注安装像Tyvek这样的渗透性女子件。正确安装并与闪烁集成，它将保护您的墙壁免受雨和径流，虽然您不应该依靠它作为您的主要空中障碍，它将有助于一些。
Thank you both for the quick response. I will definitely tape the sheathing seams on the South wall. Would you recommend taping the seams on the other walls as well, considering there is a block wall on the interior? I assume block would be air tight.
The block wall might be air tight, but you will need a strategy at the perimeters. You will need a strategy there. Your air barrier should be continuous, every section of it should be connected to the adjacent section enveloping all 6 sides of your house.
凯尔，
Painted or plastered block wall is reasonably air tight. The issues are where there are transitions from block to wood. Typically there will be some pretty ugly leaks around rafters/ceiling joists and floor joists. Probably also the connection form your south wall to the blocks.
如果没有鼓风机的门，很难说出问题所在，你需要先找到它们。大型人通常很容易找到和处理，较小的人始终是问题。具有复杂的探测施工，您可能会在那里有一些漂亮的迂回空气道路，这将需要一些努力解决。
Particularly in a retrofit, using FULLY ADHERED highly permeable WRBs such as Blueskin VP100 or Delta Vent SA is easier make air tight than non-adhered housewraps duch as Tyvek. Think of it as really wide air sealing tape. It's more labor intensive to install and more expensive, but not necessarily more expensive than retrofit-detailing the sheathing of a 30+ year old house as an air barrier. With fully adhered WRBs the 10,000 nail holes of cedar shingle siding become a non-issue.
I'm currently advising on a project on a board & batten sided house that has no sheathing, and the owner wants to tighten it up and re-side with cedar shingles (but will not be installing continuous exterior insulation, which would require reworking too many details around windows and roof overhangs.) The approach is to first dense pack the cavities with cellulose from the exterior, then strip the battens and apply a fully adhered WRB detailed as an air barrier, then a mesh underlayment for the shingles for better drainage. Most of the cavities currently have low density fiberglass batts, most of which will stay in place, dense packing over them. Some of the cavities have brick nogging on the bottom ~2' which will have to be removed. On those sections of the house the plan is to cut the board siding horizontally just above the nogging, and if possible remove any pre-existing batts, then cut 3/4" plywood to fit prior to insulating.
如果没有完全粘附的WRB，房屋可能必须剥去框架并覆盖胶合板或OSB，以使其充分气密。