Canadian house on piers
Planning on constructing a house on piers over bedrock- is it feasible/practical/permitable to run water supply & drain under the exposed floor, bundled in an insulated conduit of sorts? I’’m picturing the pipes wrapped in heat tape etc, then spray-foamed and boxed in with wood…. any thoughts on this approach would be appreciated. Also great thanks to Martin, Joe et all for their generosity and unbiased discussions- what a great space and resource you guys have here.
- 来自Muskoka的Jeff
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City water and sewer or are you getting it from a well and running a septic field?
thanks for reply- should have mentioned this is a rural build with well and septic
jarf，
你要爆炸吗？
Where is the septic field? How far does this bedrock extend?
距离您的房子有多远？
You're going to need some trenches. Sounds like a job for explosives.
Once you get your trenches established, you can bring your water pipes and drain pipes up to your bathroom or mechanical room through a small, very well insulated airtight room that extends from the bedrock to your subfloor. That room will require heat tape. The "room" can be as small as 12 inches by 12 inches.
Hi Martin! The site we have chosen is at the foot of an exposed bedrock slope which emerges out of a sandy flat zone, in which we plan to locate septic&wellhead. proposed main living space would sit about 10’ above sandy plain... our rough sketchup plan shows the essential idea:
Also, I should have stated that the specific idea I’m on is to run the pipes along the bottom of the floor to service different areas of the house, in order to simplify the plumbing.. Is it worth the energy cost of heating the external supply lines? Thanks.
Jeff,
马丁提到,更大的问题可能是通用电气tting the services to the house, not up into it. Once you are under the house, I've had good luck with a variant of Martin's "room". I build an insulated "core" about 3 feet square, open at the top to the house above. It relies on heat from the house to stay warm, as opposed to another source which might fail.
感谢Malcom，与ICF相比，一些这样的系统似乎是经济的。
If you have a well, you may be using this "room" to hold your pump in addition to being the transition point between above-ground and below-ground piping. Given that, you may consider making it physically separate from the house (no shared physical wood that can carry vibrations and definitely no shared air) to isolate the pump noise and that would call for it to be heated independently.
有趣的！并与机械噪声污染的一般厌恶相厌恶。..
似乎没有回答的问题的一部分是如何处理地板下的管道（不仅仅是地板和地面之间的缝隙。）大概您想很好地隔离地板。供应线似乎很容易 - 您可以将它们运到地板底部（绝缘地板腔的顶部/温暖侧。它也足够合理，可以通过墙壁运行。
您的排水管可能更具挑战性。您将需要保持坡度，这可能会带来一些挑战。如果您在房屋的一端有厕所，则排水管可能需要触摸地板腔（冷侧）的底部，到达您将排水管从房屋中退出的区域时您是否要阻止该管道在安大略省寒冷的冬季冻结？您是否运行数字以查看从最远的排水口到房屋将退出的房屋边缘的掉落数量？
Thanks again. I guess the question becomes: is heat tape on external drain an unwise or uneconomical proposal. plumbing is not consoldidated in our plan which has bedrooms at opposite ends, but we do have elevation under the main floor to merge drains at grade...
I'm not sure I follow.
You will have an insulated cavity below the floor right? Are you convinced that the drain can not fit inside that cavity?
那就是这个想法 - 一个绝缘的腔体从地板底部悬挂，可容纳排水口和/或供应，跑到机械室，一切都在地下。除非OBC以某种方式发生冲突，否则似乎是合理的。外部井口/泵浦空间的麻烦仍然需要加热
为什么不将所有地下管道从井中带到化粪池，然后通过坡度上的平板进入化粪池，进入房屋侧面附着的加热的机械室（看起来像倾斜棚）呢？然后，您可以将管道通过连接墙和室内虚假地板下的浴室和厨房的墙壁路由到房屋中。这样一来，管道就永远不会暴露于外部空气和冻结温度。
谢谢，我认为鉴于所需的长期跑步，我无法将排水管安装在虚假的地板上。还会大幅度增加成本 +施工时间，不是吗？
好..每英尺1/4英寸，您只看约1英尺的48英尺。
How much distance do you anticipate having between the tiles in your bathroom to the bottom of your floor joists? In other words, how large of an insulated cavity do you anticipate having beneath the surface you are going to walk on.
You may actually have a larger problem with the rapid drop at the local it leaves the house to get to the ground. That type of a drop may serve to evacuate the pipe of liquids and leave the solids behind. Have you talked to a septic company yet?
Ive been planning on 2*10 joists spanning girders spaced at 10’. but even with 2*12, i don’t see enough depth to facilitate the drains merging, elbows, etc. cutting into the floor structure so extensively could likely be problematic or prohibited, no? thanks
Jeff,
Consider using parallel-chord trusses as your floor system. You will get longer spans, need less piers & beams, and they will provide a deep enough cavity you can keep the drains warm without additional heat.
A lot of the older houses around here have pipes susceptible to the infrequent freezing we get in the PNW, and rely on a mixture of insulation and heat tape. It works, but is a very second-best alternative to having them within the conditioned enclosure of the house.
马尔科姆（Malcom），我将不得不做一些大量的处理，以处理这个有趣的建议。...我在北部落基山脉（Northern Rockies）的坡度上的一间基础上生活了多年。水线从地面上弹出，进入浴室墙。它被封闭在一个粗棚里，里面塞满了粉红色的烤面包，并用胶带包裹。除非电力熄灭，否则它永远不会冻结我。因此，尽管在建筑上不是一个优雅的解决方案，但我仍然被简单，安静，洪水安全（如果发生爆发线）和“导管”方法的经济吸引。尽管尚未计算出公认的大量热胶带的长期能量使用。非常感谢。
Jeff,
In some ways the best solution is the one you are most familiar and comfortable with. If you do make a "conduit" think about how to build it so you can access the pipes if necessary. One of my clients insulated their pipes on bedrock and then encased them in a concrete sleeve. You can imagine what happened next.
Yikes，感谢您的建议，这是我肯定会考虑的原因。
Well, it depends on the depth of the false floor and where on the main building you attach the mechanical shed. If you place it in the middle of a long wall (probably the north wall) you'll have much shorter runs than if it is at one end of the house and the bathrooms are at the other. Otherwise your option is to run the drains in the main floor system which increases the risk of the pipes freezing.