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是连续的Polyiso穿过胶合板和混凝土墙好吗?

Jamie Malcolm-Brown|发布了计划审查

我在马萨诸塞州西部有一个200年历史的木材架斗篷。去年,我们有群众拯救绝缘屋顶和三侧壁,含有密集的纤维素。不幸的是,第四墙是一个添加(70或80年代)并且已经有玻璃纤维,所以该计划无法做任何事情来改善它。

We are ready to tackle this final wall. Since the inside is finished we won’t be removing the fiberglass but will be adding rigid foam to the outside.

From outside in our details will be:

  • 1 x 10船圈壁板(垂直)
  • 1 x 4 Horizontal Strapping (with saw kerfs for drainage)
  • 2 Staggered Layers of 2″ Felt Faced Polyiso (Seconds)
  • Innie Windows (Flashed with details from Installing Exterior Insulation in Cold Climates by Thorsten Chlupp)
  • wr
  • Original Plywood Sheathing
  • 未驾驶的玻璃纤维桶
  • Drywall(Ada尽可能地完成一所老房子)

主要问题是墙的下半部分是混凝土,一部分走出地下室。此外,它不是一个倒入的墙壁。相反,它看起来像房主大致用木板形成,并且有一些随机摇滚突起。

My questions are:

  • Is there any reason not to make this a continuous installation or should I stop at the transition and insulate the basement wall differently?
  • Should I use a layer of XPS against the basement wall or some other moisture barrier for the Polyiso?
  • How to space the strapping kerfs and what depth?

Some additional info:
没有内部蒸汽屏障。我正在使用船圈壁板,因为我有它可用,并在此时匹配房子其他历史层面的情况下。最终我希望能够幸运,找到一个良好的壁板来源或骑自行车的摇晃和争吵和许多审判和错误。

谢谢

-Jamie

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答复

  1. Leo Kloop||#1

    杰米,你提出的新墙ship lap all the way down over the concrete wall part?

  2. Jamie Malcolm-Brown||#2

    Yes. The boards are long enough to go the entire 14' length.

  3. GBA Editor
    马丁·霍洛拉||#3

    Jamie,
    As long as the concrete wall is above grade and relatively dry, it's OK to install polyiso over the exterior of the wall.

    However, if the wall is uneven and bumpy -- with "rock protrusions" as you describe -- I think that it will be very hard to get your wall co-planar. You may want to come up with a system of exterior 2x2 studs on stand-offs, so that you can insulate this portion of your wall with closed-cell spray foam.

    I wouldn't worry too much about the kerfs in your horizontal furring strips. The rainscreen gap is there mostly to allow evaporation of any moisture that gets past your siding; there really shouldn't be any need for drainage of liquid water.

  4. Leo Kloop||#4

    I vote sledge hammer to even the wall surface out, parge with stucco mix right onto the exterior of the concrete wall (this is remarkably easy and quick to d) as to get an even smooth surface, insulate as one plane with the wall above with the exterior foam, add all the other bits and enjoy life.

  5. Jamie Malcolm-Brown||#5

    谢谢马丁!

    我计划在某种类型的框架系统上为地下室的“颠簸”墙体创造直线。闭孔喷雾泡沫我唯一的选择吗?它太小的工作是为了让一个绝缘公司到房子,我没有听过DIY套件的好事。墙壁高于等级和干燥。混凝土墙体框架(以及螺柱之间的任何绝缘)将在WB后面。我可以在那里使用某种类型的其他材料吗?

    I am glad I don't have to worry about the kerfs. That will save some time and keep the full strength of the 1x4's.

    谢谢for being such a great resource for everyone trying to improve the comfort and durability of their houses while diminishing their carbon footprints. There is a lot of misinformation out there. Your work and site make it easier to figure out.

  6. GBA Editor
    马丁·霍洛拉||#6

    Jamie,
    If you have a method to keep the wall co-planar, there is no reason not to use the polyiso. Spray foam is not necessary.

  7. Jamie Malcolm-Brown||#7

    It would be co-planar for the Polyiso but the details for the concrete wall would be:

    Ship Lap Siding
    捆扎
    2 Layers of Polyiso
    wr
    新的2X框架
    Closed-Cell Spray Foam, Air Space, or Other Insulating material?
    Bumpy Concrete Wall

    I gather the spray foam would be best but if that isn't feasible what other insulation could go against the basement wall?

  8. Expert Member
    Dana Dorsett||#8

    With polyiso you want to be sure that the cut bottom edge is not in contact with the soil, and doesn't get chronic splash-back from the roof drip-edge line, since it's somewhat hygroscopic. If you don't have deep roof overhangs (rarely found with Cape style archetecture) you might be better off using EPS on that portion.

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