[在此为其他线程的冗余提前道歉;我试着做我的作业，但我的场景中有一些差异，这可能是重要的…]

在美国，大约有成千上万的20世纪50年代的教堂没有隔热的T&G屋顶甲板，大多数在那些可以从减少热量的增减中受益的地方。上面的绝缘和重新安装屋顶是有详细记录的，但我知道在某些情况下(全新的瓦，龙卷风/冰雹的国家，还有石棉瓦…??)这是有问题的/很难推销。我试着弄清楚下面的绝缘方法是否更有意义，或者上面的仍然是最好的(或唯一的)选择。或者在某些地区只是增加反照率，放弃减少冬季损失(但也减少了冬季收益)…

有人有经验，比较，参考资料，细节，或只是考虑过的意见，包括粗略的成本/效益吗?我一直在阅读这里的帖子(劳拉在PA，迈克尔在NH)，但住宅有点不同——横梁之间的避难所跨度更长，访问问题(需要高脚手架)，美学(减少表面胶合层的厚度)…

例子:
俄克拉荷马州中部3B区
斜屋顶，东西两面，高高的教堂天花板
组装(进-出):T&G甲板，毛毡(假定)，沥青瓦(中深色)。

直觉告诉我们，隔热是值得的，或者以其他方式减少热量的获得/损失。(但夏天的收获也许比冬天的损失更大?)

“上面”是直接的，有很多选择，很好的通道，但屋顶是最近才更换的，所以感觉重新做整个气象平面是一种浪费，而且很难增加(多翼建筑)。最后，可能仍然是最好的…或者，就等到下一个冰雹或龙卷风…(>.<)!以下是比较棘手的:可以使用Atlas或类似的工具，并在下面添加薄T&G(以保持“外观”和声学);不能只做泡沫面板，因为防火等级。不能把T&G钉在非常厚的泡沫上-有什么方法可以使用粘合剂吗?(看起来很粗略)，还是有一个集成的产品?Battens/furring for T&G or drywall would create thermal breaks, add weight…For aesthetics, High R/in and light would be best…vacuum panels? BUT, I wonder if the real problem is moisture / condensation…? I think we’re talking about a ‘hot roof’ here, but that term is so generic I haven’t found much yet searching with it on GBA…(just #19 Martin’s to Michael) So, risking repeats, here’s my concerns: Insulation under is the opposite of the ‘perfect (roof, wall, etc)’…structure is on the side with highest temperature swings. Adding insulation will increase the swings (expansion/contraction issues?), plus discontinuity at the roof/wall intersection. In addition, if moisture passes up through the insulation layer (i.e., if not a ‘perfect’ vapor barrier, which is hard to imagine getting), it will condense against the structural deck, absorb into the wood, or trap between the wood and the roofing (can felt+shingle allow drying to the outside? hard to imagine) – so now you’ve got insulation and structure sandwiched between two ‘impermeable’ membranes. Could you shift the dew point to ‘inside’ the wood deck? I think it’s too variable, and with the joints it’s going to move around alot. Vapor permeable insulation underneath for drying out to the inside in summer could just exacerbate the winter condensation problem, as would cycling winter heating off, while venting between a kind of ‘hung’ insulation and deck (like CrossVent, but re-arranged – furring strips etc.) would only reduce your R (unless adding foil and having only the minimum air movement could make it a tie) by speeding up convection loops, and anyway would likely lead to condensation anyway (though it might be easier to check for…) It’s enough to drive one mad. Or wish there was a software that could integrate heat and moisture flows…anyone? anyone? One option is just add elastomeric / cermaic on top of the (newish) roof, (increment problem again), but now the retrofit is maybe only ½ as beneficial (would need to do more careful balance point / heating vs. cooling ratio). All that said…with such a high space, hard to access, only periodically used (a few hours at a time, a few days a week), I wonder if any of it matters. This is where ‘comparable projects’ rather than just working out a safe detail is needed. I’m working to understand more about the HVAC setup, but if there’s no high return (or could be one with a damper you could shut down) you could just let the air stratify in summer. A high return opened in winter could recycle the trapped heat, evening out temperatures and maybe reducing in/out deltaT (and heat loss). I.e., there’s other ways to save… Sorry so lengthy. With thanks in advance for any suggestions/ideas/references. Best, David