砖外部/木质柱子房子上缺少焦油纸吗？
I own a 1922 brick bungalow in Illinois. The main floor has one wythe of brick on the exterior, then an 1 1/2″ air gap, then wood stud walls. I want to drywall the ceiling and walls in one room — the previous homeowners removed the original plaster and lath and added fiberglass insulation and drywall, which I removed. There is tar paper attached to the studs only on the bottom third of the wall (photo attached). After reading through several other posts here, I’ve decided not to insulate this room at all because I don’t want to somehow damage the brick over time (I’m also on a budget and doing many other repairs to the house that are more important). I was just going to drywall over the studs as is, but now I’m wondering if I should somehow correct the lack of tar paper on the rest of the wall.
When I removed the fiberglass insulation and drywall, which I would guess had been there for minimum 20 years, probably more like 30, nothing appeared to be wet or moldy. This house has 2′ overhangs everywhere and the brick seems to be in relatively good shape.
Would it be a problem to drywall over the studs as is, or is there a chance of a moisture problem? What might I do to correct that? Thanks for any advice.
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我不确定你如何用螺柱之间的绝缘造成的，以某种方式损坏砖块？
用砖块损坏它的干缝，但你更有可能在干墙本身中获得凝结和潜在的模具生长。如果没有砖和墙板之间的耐候障碍，墙板甚至易于从外部散装水雨。
如果这是加热的空间，则在不绝缘的情况下抵制地球的犯罪率，并且可能会升级建筑码违规的水平。
1.5“气隙是一个”Rainscreen“，它限制内部和外部之间的水分转移。塔纸几乎没有功能在这里，但我猜测它被用作窗口闪烁的漏极平面。你可能会弄清楚这就是这种情况，通过围绕窗口的边缘感觉或弯曲的钻孔相机弯曲以获得更好的观点。完整的敲击焦油纸可以构成更适当的耐候障碍/排水平面，但是可能是不可能的改造。
Before you do anything to it, take a look at the brick ties, and replace as-needed. Corroded brick ties are probably the biggest existential threat to the brick.
You can probably execute a reasonable exterior side air-barrier with housewrap pushed back to within a half-inch of the exterior edge of the studs, side-stapling it to the framing as you go. Better yet, a cut'n' cobble approach to 1.5" foil faced polyiso foam between the studs, held off from the brick with chunks of 1.5" foam as stand-offs, sealed to the framing with can-foam would put a weather resistant vapor retarder between the stud cavities and the brick, and would allow you to insulate the cavites with blown fiber or installing (even if you have to compress them) unfaced R13s, which would perform about 2x as well as the batts you took out, since there was previously no exterior air barrier to prevent convective loss of performance at the temperature extremes.
如何真正做到这一点并获得正确的细节可能需要一个网站访问来检查无数的贬值，但这是可以绝缘的东西，即使你在砖上用1.5英寸的闭孔喷雾泡沫，也是如此。这将表现出来以及更好的腔填充物。取决于甚至可能是最令人可取的方法（尽管每平方英尺1.50美元的比特贵），但可能需要修改窗口闪烁的细节。
在跳过绝缘的虚假经济方面完全跳过绝缘，因为一旦你将它与Drywall绝缘，将来会再次要求Guttgin。在今后的未来，能量不太可能成为一大批更便宜，即使在今天的能源价格也不便宜地加热/冷却房间并不便宜。
谢谢你的详细回复。损害届e bricks I was referring to was reducing/eliminating the warm air passing through them to help dry them out if they're wet -- based on other things I have read online. Though again, it seems like the bricks are in good condition and that water is going where it is supposed to, and the bricks are not load bearing. I have worked on many houses before but never with brick, so it's been a learning experience.
I am uneasy about not insulating it, too. I had read about closed-cell spray foam insulation elsewhere on this site. Are there any big drawbacks or risks with this type of insulation? I just don't want to do something that will cause problems years down the road -- and I would definitely rather insulate than not (though I'm pretty sure this would be the only insulated room in the house...).
Thanks again!
砖块耐受水分，除非在冻融/解冻循环期间饱和。在冬季，从内部的“通过它们的温暖空气”实际上将在剥落易感冷外表面上向砖中添加水分。至少你需要至少某种内部气旋阻滞剂来限制水分驱动器，但内部空气密封是至关重要的。
Most brick veneer designs are vented at the top- either the cavity is open to the attic or eaves, or with slot-venting to the exterior in the vertical mortar every few bricks, and with weep-holes in the bottom course mortar every few bricks, which directs bulk water to the exterior via the weeps, and convective drying of the cavity via weeps and top vents. If those drying paths aren't already there, they can be added or modified to work better.
直接在砖上与封闭式电池一起使用的决定并不有风险，真的需要一个网站访问，看看是否有效。2英尺悬垂的悬垂在这里有利，因为它限制了外部的散装润湿，降低了所需的干燥能力，但闪烁的细节也需要对。实际访问和检查的本地专家可能能够更好地建议您。
如果这将是房子里唯一的绝缘房，可能会有补贴金钱来做一些严肃的事情。在一些情况下，可以使用填充通风口腔的未扩展注射泡沫，其他情况下不。再次，建设细节很重要。
所说的是你拔出的击败没有造成水分损伤的迹象意味着腔有足够的干燥能力，所以在合理完成的情况下，在最少的BATT溶液中不会伤害。疼痛的部分将在外部处获得适当的空调。如果您使用Housewrap为空中障碍而不是刚性泡沫，岩棉可能比玻璃纤维更好，因为它更加浓密 - 更加空气，并且完全防火。如果空调是刚性的泡沫，你需要非常压缩搭配，玻璃纤维更易于安装。