添加水泥基础低于等级，露台倒？
大家好，
We just moved in to a home about a year ago so I am still in the process of finding things out (and learning what’s terrible and what’s not…), but I had a question regarding pouring a patio at grade if the cement block of our foundation is below grade.
Picture attached.
The blue metal is what I assume to be flashing to cover the treated wood from the elements, but you need to go down about 2-3 more inches to reach the end of it where the cement block begins.
Can I have a cement patio poured just below the start of this flashing (expansion joint between) and below the door exit, or do I need to go further down to where the block foundation begins? If I need to go downward, that takes the patio below grade of the rest of the yard, which I don’t think is something we want. If I cannot pour the patio against the house due to the depth of the block below grade, can I pour it about 2 feet out and fill the gap with stone? Not sure what I would do for a step down onto the patio at that point, though… maybe just a couple slabs of stone, or something to land on?
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由气候和房屋部分组织的一千个建筑细节的集合
答复
我认为第一个问题是是否OK have wood structure start below grade. There was a discussion here recently in which people were debating whether the wood should start 8", 12" or 18" or more above grade. But nobody was in favor of negative 3". So ideally you would lower the grade by a foot or so all around, or at least by 6", and have the grade slope away from the house all around.
However, that may not be feasible. So the next question is risk assessment. To assess risk, we'd want to know your climate, how big your roof overhangs are, whether there is any slope of the grade away from the house, how damp the ground is around the house in general, and whether and if so how the basement walls are insulated, and whether there are any signs of moisture in the basement.
Hi Charlie,
我对此有一个有趣的职位……风险对我来说是一个很大的关注点，因为我有一个两岁的孩子，购买房屋的整个想法是给她一个安全的成长场所。
Most of the yard slopes toward the house, which is why I installed those drains/put the membrane on the wall. I live in Ohio, so we see it all... lots of rain at times, snow, you name it. There is a lot of clay in the yard, and it seems to turn into a soup kitchen during heavy downpour.
My yard sits lower than my neighbors' on each side now, so if I went to lower grade, I am not sure what I would do to keep their yards from becoming a dumping ground into mine. I'd contract someone of course, but not sure what techniques would be feasible since they are all sloped at me.
Attached a picture for you of the side view of that original set... it's subtle, but does head toward the house.
Where does the drain drain to? I assume you are talking about the footing drain and/or the downspout drain. It might be possible to have the newly lowered grade drain to the same place.
我沿着粉底墙有一个法国排水管，将凹槽连接到落水管，然后向左转（看到烟囱），然后将evacs送入通往街道的管道。
From the start of the overhang to the furthest outward edge of the gutter is right about 20 inches.
我不确定这是否是俄亥俄州的代码，因为我居住的地方，但在任何地方都不是真正的沙漠：完成的成绩 - 包括您的露台 - 至少在任何木材框架下至少8英寸如果您在地下室或爬行空间上有框架的地板，则至少有6'的距离至少6'。这意味着在门阈值下方约20英寸，如果是板块，则在门下8英寸。岩石和一个艰难的地方，如果将平板降低到那种程度上会使它太低，无法公开排水以至于平板上的排水板，但他们需要警惕才能保持清晰。我建议您最好的选择是取出几个部分在墙壁的底部，打开至少低于坡度的沟槽，并安装重叠的果皮和棍棒或金属闪光以保护墙壁框架免受水分的侵害，然后可以将板倒在高度将使其自然排水。门阈值将需要特殊ttention，与过去相比，从坚硬的混凝土表面从坚硬的混凝土表面溅出的垃圾和装饰将更容易腐烂。考虑一下您是否可以找到一种方法，可以在该区域延长屋顶，以保护门区域。我不建议沿着墙壁边缘充满岩石的沟渠，这只会邀请水到该区域，而是考虑整个露台区下方的4英寸岩石床，混凝土摊铺机松散地铺设了几英寸，碎石之间有砾石一个用于重大倾盆大雨的水库缓冲区。顺便说一句，您的地基排水管和落水管的排水都不应连接起来，应分别将它们分开到街道上，以便堵塞不会直接将屋顶水直接转移回粉底。
Thanks James... I wasn't aware of that with the downspout/foundation drain. Makes a lot of sense, though. I had a contractor out here that did it... guess it's getting increasingly hard to trust people (which is why I'm on here. :)) I will call them and talk to them about fixing it.
My concrete guy made the suggestion that maybe putting a deck back up and putting a proper ledger with flashing beneath the door to protect the wood now that the concrete wall beneath is waterproofed may be the overall safest option for us. Most of the water penetration we were having under there was through the concrete, and that's (hopefully) solved now with the sealed up vent/membrane.
Do you guys think he's right to make that suggestion?
一如既往地感谢您的好建议。
瑞安，
My vote would be to lower the grade of your yard (at least near your house) and, if possible, to slope the grade away from the house to a swale or swales. If you can do this -- and I know it wouldn't be cheap -- perhaps the swale could be drained with a pipe that (as you put it) "leads to the street."
Otherwise, the lower sections of your walls are at risk of rot.
I think that the idea of a concrete patio needs to be put on the back burner for now. The questions of "patio or deck?" is the least of your problems. (Eventually, once you figure out what to do with the high grade, the answer to that question will probably be, "Deck, not patio.")
Thanks Martin. I think you are correct. Sadly, this is starting to feel hopeless. If we can get the grade lowered and properly directed away from the house, then we can build a deck it sounds like.
在过去的一年中，我们花了15K用于修复问题（主要是水），防水爬网空间等...我还有大约9个问题来弄清楚这个问题。我将与一家美化公司联系，看看他们的想法是什么...
One more question (I think) for you all:
The landscaper I spoke to today said their best idea is to create a swale out in the yard (like Martin suggested) and lower the grade from the immediate foundation in the process.
Since I will need to cover up the wood in that picture with siding, should I be putting some type of flashing on it? Can I/should I use Vycor self-adhering and stick it right to the wood, or should I do something different like put some tyvek on it and then flash it?
If you have adequate elevation difference that a swale will work, it's not terribly expensive for s landscaper or excavator to do. However, it sounds like your house was set too low when it was built. Excavator's rule of thumb"when in doubt , err on high side" wasn't followed. You might be a good candidate for jacking up the house and installing a course or two of block to raise it. Obviously , the complexity of this job depends on your house layout.
瑞安，
Q. "Since I will need to cover up the wood in that picture with siding, should I be putting some type of flashing on it?"
A. I'm not sure what the "wood in that picture" means; presumably, you are talking about the horizontal band of gray material visible below the vinyl siding. If that gray material is covering the rim joist -- or is the rim joist -- then the area should, at a minimum, be covered with metal flashing once the grade is lowered (or the house is raised). Even better: cover it with an adequately thick layer of rigid foam, followed by metal flashing, with Z-flashing at the horizontal intersection between the bottom of the siding and the top of the rigid foam.
最坏的情况，如果您不能降低成绩，请提高基础。昂贵且冒险的，但是如果等级将是一个持续的问题，那么这也许是唯一的永久解决方案。
假设其他解决方案不可行，您可以安装外部底漆以将水排出街道，但由于持续的维护和运营费用，我将其视为最后一个度假胜地。