使用泡沫板将墙壁隔离而无需护套
cpshockl|Posted inGreen Building Techniqueson
I’m working on a renovation / addition to a home built in 1896 in New Orleans. We’ve basically kept only the facade and foundation. I will be sealing all the new walls up tight and have an unvented attic and crawlspace with dehumidification.
我关心的是绝缘旧立面。它是美丽的旧挡风玻璃柏树壁板。我希望它持续120年，我不想做任何事情来降低将来在某个时候挽救旧木材的能力。我知道我需要一个气盖以使壁板干燥，并且在附件中发现了图表，这些图需要1英寸的泡沫板3/4英寸以进行气盖。然后在添加2×2垫片后安装玻璃纤维棒。
框架是真实的4英寸螺柱，所以我可以使用3英寸的Ridgid泡沫板以使空气弹药薄片折腾1英寸，以便我不需要延长一英寸半的墙壁吗？然后，我将用填缝和/或闪烁的胶带密封接头。那会给我R-15而不必延伸墙。
Are there any potential problems with this method?
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Replies
cut-n-cobble使空气屏幕可疑。考虑使用较高的PERS内部侧膜（不是蒸气延迟器）或详细介绍的干墙。
好的，我打算试图将其与螺柱齐平，以将一些剩余的拉链胶带涂在接缝上，以增加空气密封。
对于膜，您是否将其固定在石膏板前的螺柱上？或者在绝缘之前将其包裹在螺柱托架中？还是石膏板垫圈是更好的解决方案？
谢谢
这三个听起来都可能 - 我不知道哪个是最好的。
+1使用开放式细胞喷雾泡沫代替巴特。
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It looks like you're basically trying to build a rain screen from the inside. I don't really see a problem with your proposed assembly. I would absolutely use polyiso here, especially considering your Southern climate zone. This might be a good place to try using reclaimed polyiso too, save a little money that way. I would seal the edges with canned foam, or caulk if you can get a really tight fit (which is surprisingly difficult to do in practice, BTW). I would skip the tape.
在石膏板上升之前，蒸气延迟膜将直接靠在螺柱上。您基本上将其钉在上面，然后密封边缘（我在此处使用尿烷填缝剂）。石膏板越过了。通常，我也会在悬挂干墙之前立即在墙壁周围围绕密封胶珠，以确保有一个好的空气密封。我没有使用干墙垫圈材料的个人实现。
我同意乔恩（Jon）认为，切入的刚性泡沫并不总是一个好的长期空气屏障，因此在您的集会中的其他地方放置备用空气屏障是有意义的。这可能是一种适合开放式细胞喷雾泡沫的应用您的绝缘层和空气密封层。我通常不建议在墙壁上喷涂泡沫，但对于您的特定应用可能是有意义的。
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Thanks for the reply. I think I'll stick with the foam board and add the vapor membrane. I salvaged every piece of framing from the house and milled it into heart pine flooring. I don't want to ruin the wood with foam.
But speaking of foam in walls...why do you not recommend it? I was planning on using Rockwol, but it has a 4 month lead time right now. I've decided to go with open cell in the walls. Is there a better way?
I'm a little confused by your post, since it sounds like you want to "stick with foam board", but also "decided to go with open cell"? Rigid foam board, which includes polyiso, EPS, and XPS, is certainly going to be less messy to work with and have no risk of overspray in the way spray foam does. If you go with open cell spray foam, I'd put TAPED ram board down on your nice floors to protect them. Spray foam is VERY difficult to get off of anything it in comes in contact with.
Regarding rockwool, have you checked with all the manufacturers of that product? A lot of people think "Rockwool makes rockwool", but mineral wool is also made by Owens Corning, Johns Manville, and probably others I'm not thinking of. I've seen Johns Manville mineral wool in stock in my area, and probably Owens Corning's version too. The products are all pretty similar between different manufacturers.
我通常不建议在墙壁上喷雾泡沫的原因是，螺柱的热桥梁会否定了如果在连续的层中施加了大部分性能优势喷雾泡沫。喷洒泡沫的优势在于，它通常会兼作空气屏障，并且将密封所有东西，因此，如果您有特殊的应用，在此应用中，空气密封至关重要且难以通过其他方法实现，即使喷雾泡沫也可以很好地适合如果您不将其用于R值优势。
I personally usually use exterior rigid foam and mineral wool in the walls. I see no reason your wall wouldn't also work like that, with mineral wool over the rigid foam panels, you'd just have to make sure you have a good interior side air barrier. I'd recommend polyiso as your rigid foam material here because of it's R value per unit thickness advantage over the other types, and in your warmer climate zone the "polyiso R value drops in cold weather" issue isn't really a problem.
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我为这种困惑表示歉意。我的意思是我的计划是喷涂新的墙壁 - 不是我最初的问题的旧立面。
Thanks for the info. I’ll keep looking for mineral wool, but I can seem to find any brand in stock anywhere. I should have added the foam board on the outside wall, but the space between my house and my neighbors is only about 25” and I learned about that method after it was too late. So I guess the foam would be best for sealing.
You could position the air barrier (vapor retarder membrane) directly against the old studs, then do the 2x2 over it and fill the new "stud" bay with a loose fiber mat, then drywall. The 2x2 could even be run in horizontal way to better run cables without having to penetrate the air barrier. Even if some air sealings "old stud - EPS plate" do come loose after a time, the air tightness is still maintained