Comments on wall design, please
附加是我概念化的墙系统的图像。它结合了内部电气，管道和墙面整理的便利性与CMU施工的结构效益，遥控墙的气密性和性能优势以及EIFS的维护益处。
寻找反馈。这种方法的任何陷阱？矫枉过正？
Thanks.
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Replies
马特，
我不确定结算系统的好处是什么。You already have a wood structure capable of being load bearing. The 4" blocks are basically a veneer, but located in the middle of the wall assembly. What do you see their function as being?
I don't like it, for a couple of reasons:
- 你没有利用CMU的耐久性，使内部或外部近乎不受损坏。内部是蹩脚的，弱干墙，外面是薄壳的薄膜，可压缩的泡沫。我将在内部或外部放置更厚的Cmus，完善并适当地覆盖。
- You still have to build a stud wall and therefore have the cost and details of an extra stud wall to deal with. If you're going to deal with them anyway, why spend extra money for CMUs? You can hide utilities in hollow CMUs, too.
- 冰和防水罩是昂贵的矫枉过正。只需使用更便宜的WRB材料。
- You have exterior stucco over foam. If it's cementitious stucco, it will crack as the foam moves in response to temperature changes. If it's synthetic stucco, then it has low durability and will be damaged by golf balls, weed whackers, birds, and rowdy kids. And, like all stucco, people will be tempted to paint it, signing themselves and subsequent owners up for the lifetime paint re-application cycle. I would put siding or a brick or stone veneer over foam, not stucco.
马特，
这是昂贵的。
2. The R-value of the wall (R-20) is low.
谢谢你的见解。
I generally hate talking in superlatives, but the goal for this concept is to create "the best" wall that can be built using conventional building materials/methods. "Best" is defined as being very strong/durable/reliable (i.e., high wind load resistance, high impact resistance, high termite resistance, etc.), very energy efficient, and requiring little maintenance.
When it comes to strength/durability/reliability and maintenance requirements, masonry is king among conventional building materials. So incorporating masonry into my "best" wall was a given. I also wanted to keep things fairly conventional in terms of running electric and plumbing, and finishing interior walls, hence the interior wood frame. Finally, the purpose of the Ice and Water Shield and rigid foam should be obvious - energy efficiency and air sealing.
Nate G.makes a really good point about not taking advantage of the durability of the CMUs. Seems like I could move the CMUs to the outside of the assembly and use them as "cladding/siding" while achieving the same overall benefits. That would require using the foam as sheathing over the wood frame, and applying the Ice and Water Shield to the foam. So, the assembly, from inside to outside, would be:
干墙
Wood Frame
Rigid Foam
Grace Ice and Water Shield
<>
CMU Wall
完成系统（标准或合成灰泥，砖或石材贴面，壁板等）
And because the foam would not have to bear the weight of the finish system, it could be thicker to address Martin's concern about the R-value.
In terms of the expense, "best" things usually aren't cheap. I'm certainly not into wasting money, but in this case, I feel like each element of this assembly has a distinct job. You could argue that the wood frame and CMU wall are doing the same thing, but again, the purpose of the CMU wall here is it's durability/strength over wood, and the purpose of the wood frame is to keep things conventional in the interior. Outside of places like Florida and Texas, this wall is probably overkill, but again, the goal is "best."
真的很欣赏洞察力，因为有了这些讨论真的有助于我学习。
If you put the thermal mass of the CMU on the exterior side of the assembly you're throwing away the enhanced thermal performance you get from that mass.
There's no point to the Grace Ice & Water (does it even stick to CMU?) A spray-applied WRB is a more appropriate & reliable solution for a CMU wall.
使用XPS泡沫表示由于HFC发泡剂引起的大环境击中，并且超过数十年的性能，最终不超过EPS的相同密度。
You don't say where this house is located. An R20 CMU wall would be extreme overkill in US climate zones 1 @ 2, but wouldn't meet code min in zone 7 if the insulation was on the interior side. It would barely meet code in zone 7 with the foam on the exterior.
将木材框架的内部框架框架框架，在CMU的内侧，带有R13-R15贝蒂，并在外部进行R15（或更多）泡沫，为您提供了CMU的大部分益处，并提供比任何一个更高的整体性能堆叠而不增加墙壁厚度，它会在美国各地的任何地方击败Code Min表现，即使没有蒸汽延迟器或蒸汽屏障由于它阻塞干燥以来的一些堆叠。）
马特，
4" CMU's are typically used as non-combustable interior partitions in commercial projects. They are very difficult to reinforce and I'm not sure your code even allows their use as exterior walls or as load bearing elements. If they are going to be part of the wall as a veneer, you have to consider differential settlement between them and the wood structure, how they will be connected to it, and again fundamentally what function they perform.
A house with 8" load-bearing CMUs is a completely different animal altogether.
在我看来，用螺柱和干墙完成这样的墙“常规”是一个错误。干墙和木螺柱是脆弱的，易受水，可以生长霉菌，并用白蚁（不是干墙的石膏核心，而是纸罩）。螺柱腔中的开放空隙是用于细菌的完美家庭。各种各样的东西可以在那里繁殖和生长，没有任何人注意到它。您可以在灌浆固体之前轻松隐藏在CMU块中的导管内部运行的实用程序。或者只是让导管暴露在内部。我宁愿像这种方法一样。它很容易，便宜，并提供令人愉快的功利觉得，墙壁的极端坚固性和耐用性很好。
If you're looking for the BEST (in terms of durability, longevity, comfort, thermal performance, maintenance-free, etc), and you don't really care about cost, then I think it's hard to beat a no-foam, no wood, no drywall approach. Use interior plaster instead of drywall, which will substantially increase the interior wall durability, and necessitates interior mass placement. Use mineral wool instead of foam for any rigid board insulation, which is fireproof and insect-proof, unlike foams. Use freestanding brick or stone veneer on the exterior, as they will be all but maintenance free forever.
One option is to use AAC to achieve your perfect wall. It's a near-single-material solution. Plaster the inside, put up a brick or stone wall on the outside, and you're done. AAC works great if you're in a climate that's more hot than cold, or where there are significant daily temperature swings. Another option is the traditional exterior-insulated CMU approach, with plastered 8" CMU on the inside followed by as much thickness of mineral wool boards as you need for your climate (colder = more needed), and cover that up with a brick or stone wall on the outside. The wall will be very thick, but if money is really no object, then you can simply widen the footers and increase the building's footprint a bit, no big deal. Thick walls are great. People love buildings with thick walls. They feel solid and safe. Another great benefit of the insulated interior mass approach for cold climates is that you can use a huge wood stove without overheating the house as easily as you can with a heavily-insulated wall without interior mass; the heat is just stored in the mass, and allows you to coast on its stored heat for a while. With some passive solar thinking and a sunny climate, you can significantly reduce the winter heating load too.
马特，你需要设计一个位置。一旦你说节能，可以改变很多。您需要考虑建筑材料的来源和能源成本。还要记住，如果设计不好，
ugly or poorly executed or if it is built in the path of rising water or a freeway etc, it may be torn down.
Again, thank you for all the info!
Taking into account all of the feedback so far, it seems that our "best" wall will end up looking a lot like "The Institutional Wall" described in this article -The Perfect Wall
在这一点上的最大问题是，如果我要带着石板外观，因为Nate G的建议，并且在石板上的“外部”层是岩棉绝缘（如上文中的文章中的6），石板贴合什么是什么？我不认为石板是自我支持，而且我非常怀疑岩棉有剪切力量握住贴面（加上Lath，砂浆，无论如何）。那么单板坚持是什么？
它不遵守任何东西;它需要成为一个独立的墙壁坐在基础上（或者在泡沫格子，AAC或耐火砖上作为热休息），就像在粘附贴面前的单个Wy砖块墙上一样。“贴面”并不一定意味着“坚持某事”，这意味着它是一个非结构的脸。这种外板墙与砖头（石头连接）连接通过矿棉，进入承载墙以进行额外的强度。有多种非金属低导热系紧固件，可用于此目的。