Condensation Between Perforated EPS and Rockwool
大家好，我遇到了我的转换车库重新建立了一个问题。所有墙壁都在等级块墙上，外面还有另一砖墙（不确定砖块底层）。我在安大略省南部6B的气候区6B。
我的计划是：
A) 1.625″ Continuous SilvRboard graphite XS (perforated) on the block wall, glued and taped at the seams. (R 7.5)
B) 2×4 stud walls with R14 Rockwool.
c）膜智能蒸汽屏障。
我组装了银色墙壁和2×4螺柱墙壁，用摇滚池填充它们;然而，当我等待一些交易进入并做他们的事情时，我并没有立即安装蒸汽屏障。
As I was getting ready to install the smart vapour barrier, I removed a piece of the Rockwool and found that the EPS wall underneath the rockwool was absolutely DRIPPING with condensation. I removed a few more pieces and, long story short, all three exterior walls were soaked with condensation. Water was literally running down the walls ( except for the interior wall connected with the house).
Did I screw up by using the perforated EPS? I’ve done assemblies like this before, in basements, but I’ve always used XPS.
另一件事我想知道......在一个点，转换车库单位的相对湿度为约65％，主要是因为我认为，一些1950年的单个窗格窗户，我正在等待被替换。由于我更换了窗口，我已经设法将相对湿度降至〜40％的装置。
湿度太高了，造成这种疯狂的凝结吗？现在我已经有了控制的相对湿度，我应该继续我的摇滚雨+智能蒸汽屏障吗？或者我应该完全放弃摇滚狼，并尝试喷洒泡沫银行？
感谢您的任何帮助。
GBA详细资料库
一千年建筑细节的集合organized by climate and house part
Replies
你确定水是冷凝，而不是通过基础墙壁渗透的散装水吗？散装水是一个完全不同的问题，与您的隔离无关。
我希望你遇到的凝结水平，但如果条件是正确的，我想它是可能的。我之前使用过的直接eps绝缘，这有点蒸汽打开（至少与XPS或Polyiso的相似厚度相比），并且“穿孔”部分可能只是一个聚势，所以你所拥有的东西不比常规开放EPS将是。
如果这真的是冷凝，那么你的GPS的表面放在地下室中空气的露点下降。没有其他解释，这只是工作的物理学。您对该问题有两个解决方案：介绍第一冷凝表面的温度，或者降低地下室空气中的湿度水平。要第一次做到这一点，你需要摆脱摇滚动杆，或者放大较厚的GPS层。GPS的表面处的温度将通过R值比和绝缘堆叠两侧的温度确定。在您的情况下，假设50F和70F地下室空气温度的基础壁温度，R7.5 / R14混合将放置GPS的内表面（GPS和摇滚浴之间的界面）在恰好害羞的57F。如果是下面的地下室空气的露点，你将具有冷凝形成。
To do the second, you need a dehumidifier. That will take energy to run, so it will be an ongoing operating expense compared to the one-time expense of a thicker layer of GPS.
账单
嗨比尔，
感谢您的答复。这使得很多感觉，看到那样写出的数字非常有帮助。
As for the bulk water concern, I'm fairly certain it's not seeping through the walls. It's not a basement, but a converted garage, so all the walls are above grade. Also, when I removed all of the rockwool and wiped down the GPS and let it dry out, there has been no more water/condensation (the rockwool is currently sitting in a pile in the middle of the room).
So if I'm understanding this correctly, since I've replaced the windows in that room and lowered the relative humidity down to 40% (from 65%), I've also lowered the dew point. Before, it would have been ~13 degrees C and now it is closer to 6 degrees C.
我现在将重新安装几个摇滚靴和监视器的凝结，现在我减少了房间的RH。再次感谢你！
Take a look at table 2B here:
https://www.appliedbuildingtech.com/system/files/abtg_rr_1701-01_moisture_control_guidelines.pdf.
In your case, you had an assembly with a mix of rigid and fluffy but no vapor barrier. Based on the table, for condensation control in Zone 5, you would have needed much more rigid insulation (ratio of 1.3 instead of 0.2).
在R14 BATT的情况下，即14 * 1.3 = R18.2。这是很多刚性绝缘。添加高湿度，这使得这变得更糟。
Your wall will work fine once you get a vapor barrier up.
我会尝试将水分从首先获得水分，并尽可能地减少您的内部RH。假设-10c户外，内部20c，您希望RH大约为30％以避免进一步冷凝。
Thank you for that link -- it looks like a great resource!
Good point! FYI - after a year in which I had added 6" of EPS to the exterior of a customer's 1920 house (real 2x4s and balloon framed which had cellulose blown into the walls in the 80s) I was asked to tear out a wall for some interior work. Once the plaster & lathe was removed I was able to look at our job from the inside. The cellulose and sheathing (1x8s) was bone dry. It had been below zero all week and the humidity in the house was about 60%. They love their big plants and making lots of pasta for the kids... Life is good when you do it right.