Kneewall / second-floor bedroom insulation project
我正在寻找一些隔热建议。帮助！
背景：我有一个两层楼的房屋建于2000年，具有非常规的，或者至少我相信，在楼上的布局上。坦率地说，我认为这是一个可怕的设计。楼上的很大一部分房间在垂直墙壁（整个9'墙壁地板到天花板）以及上面都有暴露的阁楼。我最近的研究使我理解这些通常称为膝盖墙，但是我的墙壁全是9'，而不是3-4'。它们的绝缘方式与我看到大多数膝盖墙壁隔热的方式相同，在螺柱之间塞满了玻璃纤维板，没有任何束缚。
多年来，我们一直在冷却和整体舒适度中遇到问题，在DFW的夏季，它可以达到100多个*，如果我能够冷却到楼上的78-80，我很幸运。即使那样，它将从下午到深夜/清晨不停地运行。我最近一直在阅读有关气屏重要性，并将这种隔热材料紧贴在干墙上以防止气流，因此我希望将刚性的泡沫板添加到阁楼方面，以改善我的情况。
My plan was to use a 1″ foam board, most likely Thermsheath-3 to seal the batts in, with tape between the joints. I am also planning on cutting out pieces to block in the open ceiling joists between the first and second floor with the board and spray foam. One specific question I had is that one of these walls is a shower in a bathroom. I am not sure if moisture moves through that wall to dissipate into the attic, and if adding this foam board in that area will lock moisture in the wall causing me problems. Any thoughts there?
我是一名工程师，拥有很多经验，可以构建事物和家庭改造/改进项目。我总是做我的研究，以确保我正在使用可用的最佳方法/实践来做一些事情。关于如何解决这个问题的任何其他建议，让自己有最好的机会使我的家更舒适！例如，在拧下每个螺柱和泡沫板之间，我是否应该在拧下每个螺栓和泡沫板之间，等等。
P.S.我附上了一些图片来显示我的情况。提前致谢！
GBA细节库
由气候和房屋部分组织的一千个建筑细节的集合
答复
Insulating and air sealing those walls with an inch of foil faced foam on the exterior is fine. Building air-dams between every joist bay that goes under the walls may or may not be do-able. Getting it to be completely air tight is something of a fools errand. (I say this having played the starring role of "Fool" in this movie multiple times.) Right now it looks like there may be major wind-tunnels going under the floor, perhaps filtered, but largely unimpeded by fluffy stuff. It's a bit hard to say for sure from the pictures.
有什么方法可以将管道完全带入房屋的绝缘和压力边界内？在屋顶甲板上进行绝缘是昂贵的，但可行。
我在一个无条件的车库上有膝盖墙，并在将箔纸面对的泡沫板放在墙壁上（以及地板下方密集包装并将额外的纤维素放在天花板上方）后，得到了明显的舒适性改善。使用箔面泡沫（用于额外的热反射），并用箔胶带胶带胶带。考虑制作自己的“帽螺钉”以连接泡沫。小型塑料盖垫圈（请参阅链接）效果很好，价格便宜：
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/b005te3c1g/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_asin_title?ie=utf8&psc = 1
Big box stores will have cap nails, but I found screws much easier to use and therefore made my own cap screws. Also, use a 3-4in drywall taping knife and a straightedge to cut the foam. See FHB video. Works great.
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2009/01/29/theres-a-better-way-cutting-rigid-insulation
As Dana mentioned, air sealing everywhere possible is most important. I don't think that you have to worry about caulking between each stud bay, just use tape to seal the seams and search out all places where warm air can reach the living space.
The full size doors will definitely be helpful for getting the foam into the unconditioned space, but are a liability (low R value, air leakage) in the long run. Consider how to improve those as part of the project (e.g. smaller access door, air sealed foam board, etc.).
无条件空间中的管道也是责任，但修复可能更难 /更昂贵。关于解决方案的大量文章，但肯定会更加昂贵。
这不是最迷人的项目，但舒适性的改善应该令人满意。祝你好运！
乔
The temperature difference between the living space on the other side of those full-height knee walls and the unconditioned attic could be as much as 80F in the summer during the day. You have both NO air control layer and inadequate levels of insulation. Do the air sealing FIRST and I hate to say this, but as an engineer you will get this: performance test your air sealing with a blower door test. Even the best of us get dope-slapped the first time one of our detailed assemblies gets crushed by what the blower door will reveal.
彼得