HardiePanel vs. Trim: Which Comes First
I’d say this is an easy answer if we were talking about lap siding. However I’m going for the classic board and batten look, using 4×8 sheets of hardiepanel rather than 10” boards. No foam in this application, 3/4” furring/rainscreen. Using either primed whitewood or cedar for trim. Haven t decided on that…
从本质上讲，问题是：修剪还是面板？我知道什么更容易，但不确定是否重要。
Panels first would mean my cuts around windows and doors wouldn’t need to be as precise. I also wouldn’t need to metal flash the head trim either, probably just the window itself. I would then just bevel the top of my header trim slightly and bevel the battens accordingly and caulk that joint.
I don’t see much of a problem with this, or am I missing something? since my panels are smooth, as opposed to textured, or lap siding, again I can’t think of anything wrong with this – sort of like hanging drywall.
(opinions needed – window/door/corner trim sitting proud of battens, or flush? Battens -1.5” wide casings/corners – 3.5” craftsman style windows. They will be same color – white, just 1 sheen difference between trim, and battens/body – considering this in case trim and battens butt up against each other vertically)
再次感谢
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Replies
Trim over the panels. Hardie has an installation manual that you can find online that spells out all the options. I have the exact same set-up as you, smooth panels with board and batten.
意见问题实际上只是个人喜好。我去了冲洗。我猜您不是在修剪和板条上使用Hardie吗？否则，您的板条将为2.5“而不是1.5”。我认为2.5英寸更合适的尺寸，无论是覆盖接缝和指甲还是样式。
我听到您在网上对手册的看法，我倾向于比大多数其他资源（甚至制造商）更信任GBA社区。
我不想和Hardie板条一起去的原因是因为宽度。我只是认为2.5英寸太宽，即使在面板接头，1.5” -2”也足够覆盖，我认为，如果您选择的话，螺钉，面板缝隙最大为1/8”，考虑到螺钉约为1/2”来自面板的边缘。- 大约要覆盖1-1/8英寸，因此1.5-2似乎足够了。但是您已经做到了，我还没有。
Lastly, most B and B I see have 1.5-2” battens. I simply almost never see 1x3. Perhaps if you’re spacing them 16oc instead of 10”oc, the 2.5 would look ok.
问题：您是否填充面板接头，并在面板接头上张紧？我想您不需要使用Hardie Bats？
如果您自己安装面板，您可能会没事的。我毫无疑问地将指甲保持在边缘的0.5英寸。当考虑从边缘的最大空间时，不要忘记包括螺钉或指甲头的半径；中央约1-1/8英寸的两个螺钉但是，我至少需要1-3/8英寸才能覆盖。但是，我签约了很多面板，尤其是第二层和山墙。他们的指甲不一致。即使在指甲线中间面板中，他们所要做的就是击中中心，我也必须“最适合”这条线才能覆盖所有指甲，而不是将其放置在死去中心。每小时都要付钱，所以他们没有理由着急。我只能想象我要付出统一费用会更糟。
我的板条间距为24英寸，因此绝对有所不同。在10英寸的间距时，看起来会非常不同。
有四种处理面板接头的批准方法。
1) Leave a 1/8" gap, and caulk
2）与H型塑料或铝一起连接
3) Cover with battens
4)轻轻邻接面板和离开了
因此，您可以看到，即使您不覆盖关节，也不需要填缝。如果您用板条覆盖它们，那么填缝的动机甚至更少。这是一件好事，因为无论如何，填缝即将在某个时候失败，您不希望它在隐藏区域中失败。我有一个雨屏，所以我真的不在乎少量的水在面板后面。我不知道您所处的构建阶段，但是如果您可以纳入一个额外的保险，这是值得努力的保险，IMO。
hi Kevin -
当我很久以前我还是一名木匠时，我以为您填补了一切紧身，并将所有东西紧紧地“避开水”。本质上是面部密封的壁板系统。我不明白水或木材建筑材料的工作原理。
Sealant only keeps water out for as long as it stays bonded to the substrate. After that bond breaks, now the sealant let water in and retards vapor drying. Best way to protect wood is to let it see as much air as possible: on its back side and at joints. Gap everything. Any sort of wood building material will thank you.
Peter
所以what do you do for horizontal trim pieces, such as the trim over the window? I'm guessing that a thicker piece of exterior window casing is nailed to the sheathing, then metal flashing over the top piece, then the Hardiepanel over the flashing (leaving a small gap between the bottom edge of the panel and the flashing) then the battens? Any vertical battens above the top piece of horizontal window casing would then be installed (how much of a gap between pieces)?
斯科特，
If the trim is being applied over the Hardi-panels:
- The head-flashing is installed in a bed of caulking onto the top of the window frame.
- WRB被绑在头部闪烁上，或者刷新闪烁。
- The rain-screen battens are run down to the top of the window flange.
- The cement-board panels are fastened to the battens. At the head the panel is kept up about 3/8" .
- The horizontal window trim at the head is kept up 1/8". This means you need to cut kerfs in the trim to set it down over the end-dams in the head-flashing.
我是关于安装板和板条的。我的问题是在门框附近，这些问题已经安装，并用标准宽度门框订购，用于2x4墙。构造为2x4，具有7/16 OSB WRB，然后是垂直壁板。门框边缘如果与OSB齐平。因此，我在上面安装了垂直壁板的垂直壁板，我将在门框之间有间隙，并修剪垂直壁板面板的宽度。这是正常的吗？我只是粉笔这个差距吗？有没有更好的办法？
谢谢
Caseyspradlin，
您需要在门框中添加一块修剪（或砖砌），以补偿差距。
谢谢马尔科姆,你能详细说明brick-stop' is I have not heard of them and internet searching only refers to actual bricks.
谢谢
A brick-stop is also sometimes called a brick-mold. It's a jamb extension that brings it out past the sheathing. In your case you need to add a small piece to trim, preferably the same width as your existing pre-hung door frame, to bring it out to the front face of your Hard-panels. It's probably going to be something like 3/4" x 1/2".