选择HVAC系统
大家好，
This forum has been hugely helpful and informative as we build our zone 6A, very good, lower-case p passive house. But my head has been spinning for months trying to figure out what our HVAC system should be, and I would really welcome some input.
房屋约为2800年，包括大部分完成的地下室。我们现在正处于内部框架和电气粗糙之间。
I calculated the peak cooling load to be 10,907 btu/hr, and peak heating load to be 34,174 btu/hr.
When we started building, we had our sights set on an air-to-water heat pump for heating and DHW and a Minotair for ERV and cooling. Neither of which has panned out for various reasons I can elaborate on if anyone is curious. Because that was the plan though we went ahead and put tubes in the basement slab, Wirsbo 1/2″ spaced at 8″. There are six circuits, all at 200′. The plans call for a 3″ concrete slab on the main floor for a solar heat sink; we could also put more tubes in here if we wanted, but GBA articles have really steered me away from doing this, especially in the south facing rooms.
There will be a small wood stove in the living room, but it is intended for joy and extended power outages only – not our everyday heating needs.
冷却对我们很重要。我们需要在主人中有某种冷却单元，因为我们在门关闭并讨厌晚上很热的情况下睡觉。当前的冷却计划是楼上的6000btu三菱超热量，第二层大师是第二个。房间的尺寸过大，但是它和它们一样小，我认为我们可以在白天打开门以帮助主要区域负担。
那么，我们该怎么做？目前，我想我们将管子放在北面的主楼层房间中，并使用急诊热水器通过那些和地下室的板将适当的温水发送。我正在探索一个排水热恢复单元，以进食热水热水器以提高效率。然后将朝南的房间不带管，以便它们可以吸收太阳能加热进入平板。北面的房间和地下室将抛光混凝土，因为成品地板，朝南的主楼层将在板上设计过硬木。
但是，我担心给我们的控制很少，如果在阴天会很冷。我们可以在主要区域中添加另一个迷你切片来解决这个问题，但这使主中的一个感觉更加多余 - 除了我们必须在其中进行某种冷却。我们是否将大师迷你切片删除，将一个放在主要区域，然后在最热的月份中使用便携式AC？那会起作用，但对于新的版本来说真的很笨拙。
我试图保持简单，但是无论我们一直以来都感到笨拙和/或过度设计的东西似乎似乎不管是什么。想法？
PDF of our Manual J with layout is attached.
Thanks so much!
GBA Detail Library
由气候和房屋部分组织的一千个建筑细节的集合
答复
In a Passive House the mechanical system is supposed to be the cost saving, so keep it simple.
我建议最简单的加热和冷却选择是热泵。稍微超大您的ERV管道，并使用它们，并使用返回空气通过ERV的多位置热泵空气处理程序。添加一个回流空气挡板阀，以何时以较高的空气量启动热泵。从15安培的Rheem Hybrid热泵中的热水，80加仑，因为它是一个家庭住宅。
You can add zone control to the ducts if you want, but that increases complexity and a Passive House has very little temperature differential.
Make sure you calculate your overheating potential from your windows using PHPP and reduce that to close to 0%, no more then 5%.
Hydronic in-floor heating is almost always, too expensive and to slow to respond for a Passive House and is difficult to provide cooling using it.
Thanks, Frank. Forgive the following naïve questions - the air handler version is the heat pump variation I'm least familiar with. Would the air handler get installed in our basement mechanical room? And we would do an integrated ERV so that they could share ductwork? We don't really have the space for two ductwork systems. And your feeling then is that we abandon the tubes already installed in the basement slab?
这可能是overengineered end of the spectrum, but this wood hydronic setup could work especially if you're going with a wood backup anyway. You'd need some way to generate electricity during outages for the circulators.
//m.etiketa4.com/article/flatrock-passive-laying-out-the-mechanical-system
看起来最简单的选择是一个导管的小插图。三菱/lg/fujitsu/其他所有人都提供了管道选择，可以为您的房屋提供足够的供暖能力，并避免无管选择的分配和超大问题。另外，您将避免所有的复杂性。
I'm in a rapid deep dive on air handler mini splits right now - had been focusing exclusively on wall and ceiling units. The Mitsubishi units say, "This air handler unit features a built-in humidifier, ERV, and auxiliary heat control inputs." Does that mean they have a built in ERV? Or that they have inputs for an ERV? If it's the former they're effectively a magic box like a Minotair...which would be amazing.
https://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/residential/products/ducted-air-handler#scrolled?modelID=SVZ
That description had me curious, so I looked over the literature for the SVZ. I think that it was just a poorly worded sentence that is supposed to mean that the inputs for controlling auxiliary heat, a humidifier, and an ERV are built in.
It's listed under sections 9, 10, 11https://www.mitsubishitechinfo.ca/sites/default/files/sh_svz-kp12_36na_201812_0.pdf