Insulating Rim Joist Bays With Brick Veneer Gap
I have a ’72 wood sided/brick veneer house with 2 stories + walkout basement in southeast VA (4A). The first floor is well above grade in most locations. 3ft at the minimum. A section of the house is over a crawlspace but the joist bays do not have this direct path to the veneer air gap, there’s a typical mudsill to rim joist intersection.
希望在不摧毁我的房屋的情况下，尽力弥补空隙并提高我的R值。
我设法找到了一些与我的特定问题相似的示例和类似的帖子，但是，我想在自己的房子上尝试100％。我编造了一些草图，显示了我的情况和拟议的决议。最好只用木头覆盖缝隙，密封，用岩石填充腔，然后在螺柱墙上添加我的泡沫板，而不是泡沫登上托梁湾的底部和轮辋托梁？想法是，它可能会使托梁/地板组件中的一些内向干燥？
Do I need to drill vent holes and weeps into my brick?
Do I need to try to slide metal flashing under my sill plate between anchors?
谢谢您的帮助！
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我喜欢您的详细信息，其中包括鼠标和错误……我必须借用您的想法！开玩笑，我喜欢您的方法，是的，因为砖是多孔的材料和水分储层，因此发泄和哭泣的孔总是一个好主意，并且是代码。金属闪烁也不会受伤。
Thanks! I was trying to be as realistic as possible. I should have also included a snake, though.
我担心我会从某种程度上限制墙壁系统的干燥能力，而sill是，砖贴面可能比典型的侧面房屋所接触的水分可能更多。我确实在平板中安装了地下室内部外围排水管，并带有墙壁衬里的东西，以将水向下偏离排水管。不确定是否拥有该块墙的高度是否高于等级的高度，再加上首当其冲的砖块，在某种程度上，至少将其限制在毛细血管效应中的水分量。
您无需在毛细管中使用金属，在某些方面，金属甚至在这里也不是理想的（因为它会腐蚀）。典型的铝闪烁可能尤其容易出现腐蚀问题。我喜欢使用薄（1/32“）HDPE（高密度聚乙烯）作为改造毛细管休息。我喜欢HDPE的原因是它非常坚硬且耐用，非常便宜，而且非常僵硬又湿滑。轻松（ISH）滑入小间隙。我更喜欢使用黑色HDPE进行抗紫外线。您可以从塑料供应房中获得此材料。
如果您有小动物问题（我也喜欢您的鼠标和虫子的细节！），当您盖上帽子时，我会添加硬件布。硬件布就像重型窗户屏幕，它使得良好的咀嚼小动物屏障。1/2“网眼通常足以防止诸如老鼠之类的东西。如果您对小蛇有问题，1/4”可能会更好，但是如果您也有一层木头，我认为您会没事的有1/2“，因为蛇没有咀嚼东西 - 蛇没有牙齿！
Once you've put in that critter barrier and capillary break, you want to use your last detail with the full layer of rigid foam for best insulation. If you are careful with your exterior, you'll have drying to the exterior for the sill plate.
I see you show the rigid foam in pink, so I think you're thinking of Owens Corning's Foamular XPS product. My preference for this area is polyiso on the walls, and EPS on the rim joist. The reason I prefer EPS on the rim joist is that it's a little more vapor open than XPS, so it's a little safer in retrofit applications where you're worried you might have a bit more moisture than you'd like. I used 2" EPS panels when I insulated the rim joist in my own home for this reason.
Bill
Thanks for the reply! Do you typically need to Jack a joist or two at a time to get pressure off of the sill and just work your way around?
I use a pair of sistered 2x6s as a sort of mobile header, and a pair of bottle jacks to lift it up. I use a header about 6 feet long. The goal is to lift enough joists to slide in 4 foot long strips of HDPE. The reason for 4 foot strips is that the standard sheets are 4 x 8 feet, so I have the plastics supply house cut me strips 4 feet long and whatever width the top of the block wall is plus about half an inch. I form the half inch at a right angle with a strip heater (I have one of these, but many plastics suppliers can also do light fabrication like this for you).
What I do is put the header up, then jack it up to open up a gap of about 1/8 to 3/16" or so between the sill and the top of the masonry wall. I think slid in a strip of HDPE until the lip is against the inside of the block wall. In this way I know immediately when the strip is all the way in -- this is important since it's often difficult to work in these areas, so anything you can do ahead of time to make the job easier is worth it. I then lower the header, move it over leaving maybe a foot of overlap with where I started, then jack it up to open a gap again. I insert another strip of HDPE overlapping the first by an inch or two. I then lower the header and keep on going in the same process until I get to the far end of the wall.
It's tedious work, but not that hard.
Bill