答复

1. 专家成员
   Zephyr7|Sep 28, 2019 03:57pm|＃1

   令人怀疑，您会发现很多帮助解决板的帮助。几乎没有人会再进行董事会级的维修，这些天每个人都互换了零件。

   That said, oftentimes corrosion is the problem with these boards (in general, I don’t have experience with yours specifically). Corrosion does usually one of two things:

   1：连接器上的腐蚀销/插座/螺钉。您可以通过像搜查垫这样的浅色磨料和称为“ Deoxit”的W产品清洁它们，这是用于此目的的接触清洁剂。Deoxit为不同的材料提供了不同的配方，请确保为您的应用程序使用正确的材料。通常，您会有黄金或镀镍触点。

   2:腐蚀痕迹(铜的“线”pathways on the circuit board). I’ve seen traces get corroded completely through. Do a close inspection of the board — both sides — and check for any open traces. If you find any, you can repair them by scraping off a little of the solder mask (the usually green protective coating on the board), tinning it a little with a soldering iron, and then carefully soldering a short piece of wire to bridge the gap. It’s best to use either tin or silver plated wire here. You can often harvest some tinned wire strands from old computer power cords, many of which use tinned copper strands in the wires, or you can buy it as “buss wire” in little rolls. Note that the harvester strands will be pretty fine wire gauge, which is often helpful for fixing boards in this way. Be very careful when soldering that you don’t bridge any nearby traces or component pins and cause a short circuit.

   笔记that many electronic devices use RoHS compliant solders these days. These are “lead free” solders. If you don’t have experience working with these solders, I’d recommend sticking with the usual 60/40 leader solder which is still available in the US. Leaded solder flows more easily and is much easier to make reliable connections with if you don’t have a lot of soldering experience.

   If you have a dead component on the board, you may or may not be able to make a repair. Bad electrolytic capacitors are easy to replace, look for bulging or leaky capacitors and replace any you find. Burned resistors (look for yellow/brown discoloration) are also easily replaced. Semiconductors can be replaced IF you can find EXACT replacements, or if you have the knowledge to cross them to suitable replacements. Any custom integrated circuits or programmable parts that are bad pretty much means you need a new board as no one will sell you only those parts.

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2. 
   马特f|2019年9月28日下午09:33|＃2

   Do you have any familiarity working with circuits? Any known event that killed it? Do you get any functionality or no response on plugging it in? There is a basic schemitic here if this is the model you have:https://www.jablotronlt.com/files/futura/en/jablotronlt_installation_manual.pdf

   The most basic thing is making sure the board is getting power.

   这看起来像是一个很花哨的ERV。更糟糕的是，您可能可以让粉丝奔跑，并拥有一个很好的“ Dumb” ERV。应该有一些便宜的ECM电动机速度控制，您可以将其代替主控制板，并为您提供一个旋钮来调整每个风扇的速度。

   如果您想要一个项目，那么要获得Arduino或PLC来执行大多数本地功能还不错。

3. 
   杰里·楚旺（Jerry Chwang）|2019年9月30日下午06:17|＃3

   Thanks guys. Some more background info:

   我拥有的单元是原始的Air Pohoda Ultimat 240e -iervs之一，因此Jablotron安装手册可能无济于事。

   ERV确实发起了（我听到大门打开/关闭），但随后显示出错误，没有响应任何命令。我试图与发明者进行远程排除，但后来他尝试了几件事并提出问题后，他对我的电工和机械工程师感到不适。基本上说，我的家伙不知道他们在做什么，尽管最初承诺从他剩下的股票中向我们发送新董事会，但仍拒绝进行交流。他拥有Jablotron购买的专利，最后我听到的是，他被聘为他们的领先技术人员，所以我认为他现在只专注于他们的产品。

   So my assessment of a faulty board is based on the inventor saying we should just replace the whole thing. Since that is no longer an option, I guess we have to troubleshoot or as suggested, program something from scratch. I have no experience with circuits, but assume the difficulty will be in reverse-engineering the control logic / strategy?

   P.S.我们最初失去了欧洲电源线，因此不得不取代北美电源线。然后，我们仍然没有收到电源到该设备的电源，并在设备内部找到了一个错误的连接，我们替换了。我认为这不会损坏任何东西，但可能会损坏。

   正如我所说，现在我们遇到了一个我无法诊断的错。

4. 专家成员
   Zephyr7|2019年9月30日下午06:31|＃4

   我首先怀疑电解电容器（通常是类似罐装的设备），尤其是如果该单元已有数年以上。电解电容器有一生，并且磨损。它们也便宜且相对易于更换。

   The other possibility in one or not actuators has gotten gummed up and is drawing too much current, causing the unit to fault after a while as it either heats up too much or detects something is taking too long to happen.

   It’s really hard to diagnose something like this remotely, especially without even a pic. If you can post a good, clear pic of the components on that control board, I can eyeball it for you and at least see if any parts look bad visually. I’d be looking for bulging or leaking capacitors, and discoloration on anything that would mean thermal degradation. My guess is any custom programmed parts are ok from what you’ve described, so you can probably repair this unit.

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