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Concrete slab against rim joist

大家好,

因此,我正在修复由于某人在我的轮辋上倒入我的轮辋托梁所造成的损害。用地面压力处理的木材拆分了混凝土,并用额定压力处理的木质托架代替了受损的泥石座和托梁。问题是,我真的需要将混凝土倒回去。它将被覆盖,但房屋的建造成本较低。我花了一些时间研究这一点,听起来好像不是最佳的,但用果皮和粘膜带有额外的金属闪光的压力处理的窗台和边缘托梁可能是一种相当有效的组合。有人对此过程有细节吗?

Also, in another area with a similar problem, I am considering adding a row of block on top of the existing foundation wall and joist hanging off the inside. This portion of the house is currently under grade. Dirt was halfway up the mudsill. This portion will not be covered with a porch and will have to have finished grade 6″ down from subfloor level. I would love to do peel and stick and flashing like the drawing I attached. Any thoughts on these ideas?

I am in Southern Oregon.

Cheers, Randy

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Replies

  1. Expert Member
    Malcolm Taylor||#1

    兰迪,It's not a detail I'd use on new construction, but it will work fine. Make sure you use a flashing that is compatible with concrete, and I wouldn't worry about cutting a reglet into the wall - just make sure the membrane is well adhered.

    Have you thought of just adding 4" block to the outside of the wall, and leaving room for the joists to sit on the inside?

    1. 兰迪·格利斯汀(Randy Gleysteen)||#3

      Hey Malcolm,

      I had thought about block, but not 4". Are you thinking cutting back the joists to where i'd have 2" bearing left after adding the block to my 6" wall? My concern with this is that i feel like in the right circumstance, any water or moisture find the separation from the block to poured wall and marinate my mudsill and joists. I attached a detail, Is this what you were thinking?

      1. Expert Member
        Malcolm Taylor||#5

        兰迪,

        如果是我,我将在两种情况下都使用膜并闪烁。切断托梁,铺设块等是很多工作。

        如果您确实使用了块(假设墙壁8英寸),我会剪掉托梁您将没有块 - 我想这是关于为什么要使用块的问题?

  2. GBA Editor
    Brian Pontolilo||#2

    Hi Randy.

    您可能会发现此FHB问答有用:How to Safely Pour Concrete Against Siding

    1. 兰迪·格利斯汀(Randy Gleysteen)||#4

      Brian,

      是的,非常有帮助。我实际上以前看过,但以某种方式忘记了它。而且我读过很多次,由于毛细血管的可能性,金属闪烁可能会变得复杂。你以前做过吗?您知道什么是PVC线圈库存吗?或者可能找到它的地方

      1. GBA Editor
        Brian Pontolilo||#6

        Hi Randy.

        You should be able to get vinyl coil stock at your lumberyard or big box store. In this situation vinyl will likely stand up to frequent wetting better than aluminum coil stock.

        I haven't poured a concrete pad against a house like this, but many years ago I built a few sets of wet-laid stone entry steps. We protected the house with wide, peel-and-stick membranes (like Grace Ice and Water Shield) and left a gap between the membrane and the back of the steps. I was working for a landscape construction company at the time and I don't remember if that was my boss's recommendation or the builders, but they both thought it was enough protection, I guess. Unfortunately, I have no idea how those projects held up.

        1. Expert Member
          Malcolm Taylor||#7

          Brian,

          Interestingly, there is a parallel discussion on the main page about how to remediate a wall like this once things need attention years down the road.

          That's my problem with the detail - and by extension with offset deck-ledger details that allow water to move in confined space next to the cladding. If you ever do have to repair them, you end up having to remove a lot of things you wish you didn't. Detailing a building so it includes as few inaccessible bits as is practically possible seems to me to be a good approach to aim for.

          1. 兰迪·格利斯汀(Randy Gleysteen)||#8

            Malcolm, do you have a link to the parallel discussion? And just so I'm clear, if it was your house, you would do the peel and stick/viynal flashing method?

          2. Expert Member
            Malcolm Taylor||#9

            兰迪,

            Here is the other thread://m.etiketa4.com/question/front-steps-sheahathing-details

            我会使用果皮和粘膜。我对乙烯基线圈库存有些警惕 - 仅仅因为我对它的寿命一无所知。这可能无关紧要,因为您所包含的任何闪烁实际上都只能是机械保护,以防止对其背后的膜损坏。一旦倒入平板,它可能并不重要。

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