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NH中的肠道翻新 - 加热/绝缘问题

Paul_Gareau|Posted inMechanicalson

大家好你们好。

我在新罕布什尔州中部的1000平方英尺牧场房屋的完整肠道翻新中。我们的计划是主要使用厨房中的木炉炉加热。我们的“备份”热源和AC将是24K BTU Fujitsu mini Split,卧室有两个7K BTU头,在厨房/客厅里有一个12k的头。我将在2×4的腔中使用摇滚圈,并在外部用岩石2英寸舒适板包裹。面向西部的墙将获得闭孔喷雾泡沫,以使将来的添加更加容易。我们将在阁楼上进行至少R50的吹牛纤维素。在完整的,未完成的地下室上的地板将被隔离,但是尚未选择该方法。(Misc ..我们正在为外墙,室内墙壁和地板铣削自己的木材,并将运行3.5kW网格绑定的太阳能电池板)。

A bulk load in CoolCalc gave me approximately 21k BTU for heat. The ecomfort.com calculator roughly matched with approx 19k BTUs.

现在,解决问题…
1) Does the mini-split design and sizing seem reasonable? (Final design of 7/7/12k came from a contractor). Also note the small office on the south-facing wall of the house won’t be conditioned.
2) What can we do to promote air circulation from the wood stove? Our ceilings are low and adding transoms over doors with floor vents might not be realistic. Bedroom doors would be mostly open during the day and closed at night when heating is needed the most.
3)对绝缘计划的反馈将受到欢迎。
4) We’ll be using a Kohler 14kw generator for backup power. The specs say that it has a maximum THD of less than 5%, which is generally low enough for sensitive electronics. The Fujitsus are supposedly very sensitive and their technical people have “no comment” when it comes to backup power. I saw another thread where someone had a similar plan and assuming it’s not uncommon to run a mini split from a generator, I’m curious about how it actually works in practice.

提前致谢!
Paul

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答复

  1. Expert Member
    达娜·多塞特(Dana Dorsett)||#1

    The ecomfort.com calculator is a joke. Use loadcalc.net for a second opinion, since it's at least Manual-J based.

    要知道2吨多层是否需要“合理”,需要实际的型号以及您的99%的外部设计温度以及按区域负载区域。并非所有2吨富士图多幅度在您的外部设计温度下具有相同的容量。AOU24RLXFZH适用于25,500 btu/hr @ +5f,但只有13,500 btu/hr @ -15F,而aou24rlxfz(no -h)也不适合那么多。

    What are the individual room loads of the bedrooms and office? A 7RLF or 9RLF mini-duct cassette with ducts in the basement to those three rooms may be more appropriate than a 7RLS per bedroom, with no direct heating of the office.

    9RLFCD单个区域迷你切片适用于14,000 BTU/HR @ -5F,并且可以将油门降至3100 BTU/HR @ +47F,比使用24rlxfzh获得的要低得多。燃烧木材时,可以完全关闭该区域的单独的9RLS3H单个区域迷你切片,但可以提供13,500 BTU/HR @ -5F或11,000 BTU/HR @ -15F。总体容量(和效率)将大于24RLXFZH,并且安装成本可能是可比的或更低的。

    I'm not clear how closed cell foam on the west wall makes a future addition easier(?).

    >“地板上的地下室将被隔离...”

    Is the insulation plan for the basement to insulate the basement walls (recommended), or is that intended to mean the underside of the first floor is insulated?

  2. Aedi||#2

    首先,注意:确保您的翻新工程包括空气密封的计划。

    2) To my knowledge, there is no good solution for moving heat like that without involving some powerful fans.

    3) I am somewhat confused by your insulation plan. Mainly, I do not understand the plan to use spray foam to make the addition easier. Spray foam will reduce your access to your wall cavities, which you will probably need to use, and will make creating new openings slightly more annoying. I know spray foam will perform better than batts alone, but since this is a temporary situation you should just go with the batts. You might even be able to reuse them on the addition (or leave them for a sound proofing benefit). As a side note, any particular reason for preferring comfortboard over rigid foam? Foam is cheaper, especially if you have reclaimed foam available in your area. And your willingness to use spray foam means you are not anti-foam on principle.

  3. Paul_Gareau||#3

    Thanks for the responses so far.

    Re: spray foam and the addition. To meet code requirements for insulation I need to either use closed cell spray foam, or rockwool in the cavities /and/ on the exterior. I don't want to insulate the exterior only to tear it off in a couple years, so spray foam is the option that's left. We'll pre-frame doorways and knock out the walls and insulation when we're ready to bulid.

    DANA,RE:“ AOU24RLXFZH适用于25,500 btu/hr @ +5f,但只有13,500 btu/hr @ -15f”。是的,这是我们将要使用的“ H”模型。在不同的温度下,您在哪里获得评分?我们的设计温度大约是我们所在的0F。

    I don't remember which tool I used for individual room loads, but my notes say about 3k for the bedrooms and 2.5k for the office. The kitchen/living room was about 9k BTU (contractor says 12k is needed). My original idea was to use a ducted mini split for the bedrooms, but I was steered away from that idea by the contractors I spoke with, based on the lower efficiency of those units vs ductless. An issue related to the location of the return(s) came up too - where would that go?

    I like the idea of using a second condenser for the kitchen and living room. I'll ask for a quote for that option.

    地板将被绝缘,而不是地下室墙壁。在对地下室/粉底墙做任何事情之前,我们需要处理一些排水问题。

    艾迪(Aedi),我希望对流能够完成空气流通的工作,但没有透射的空间是一个问题...

    We'll be sealing as well as possible and using a vapor barrier on the rockwool walls. My understanding is a vapor barrier shouldn't be used with cellulose insulation. Haven't looked into what's needed for the floor yet...

    Paul

    1. Expert Member
      达娜·多塞特(Dana Dorsett)||#5

      >"My original idea was to use a ducted mini split for the bedrooms, but I was steered away from that idea by the contractors I spoke with, based on the lower efficiency of those units vs ductless. "

      Send those contractors back to school!

      The 9RLS3H single zone wall unit is indeed very efficient, with an HSPF of efficiency of 14.0:

      https://www.fujitsu-general.com/us/resources/pdf/support/downloads/submittal-sheets/9rls3h.pdf

      That's about 15% more heat per kwh than the 9RLFCD ducted unit's HSPF 12.2:

      http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/us/resources/pdf/support/downloads/submittal-sheets/9RLFCD.pdf

      但是,只有无管头的AOU24RLXFZH的HSPF效率为10.3:

      http://portal.fujitsugeneral.com/files/catalog/files/24rlxfzh3.pdf(此链接现在不起作用,但请相信我:-))

      That means the 9RLFCD ducted minisplit delivers about 18% more heat per kwh than the 24RLXFZH with a ductless heads in AHRI testing.

      相同用电的热量增加18%是一个重要的一步。

      与在24RLXFZH上使用时,9RLS3H在单个区域单元上每千瓦时的热量高36%。

      每千瓦时的热量增加36%是一大步。

      因此,当然,一般而言,无管比导管更有效。但是,单区也比多区域更有效,因此两个单个区域微型切片(一个无管和另一个导管)很容易在效率和容量上均能超过多区域的溶液。

      不同温度数的容量来自RLF技术与设计手册和NEEP电子表格的组合(目前不可从NEEP站点下载)。

  4. Paul_Gareau||#4

    Aedi,

    I missed this question before "As a side note, any particular reason for preferring comfortboard over rigid foam? Foam is cheaper, especially if you have reclaimed foam available in your area. And your willingness to use spray foam means you are not anti-foam on principle."

    我的目标是只在必要时使用喷雾泡沫。As far as rigid foam panels, we would need a lot of it to keep the dewpoint outside of the wall cavities. Then there's the whole issue of innie windows vs outie windows, drainage plains and a bunch of other stuff I can't be bothered with. :) The 2 inches of comfortboard shouldn't pose much of a problem.

    Thanks,
    Paul

    1. Paul_Gareau||#6

      Quick correction as I refresh my memory on some of this... Foam probably wouldn't have to be too much thicker than the comfortboard - my mistake. I think what pushed me away from foam was that comfortboard is more permeable and can dry better to the outside.

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