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Insulating exterior walls and moisture

史蒂夫戴维斯|Posted in一般的问题on

大家好,

I have a 1960s single family home located in climate zone 3, coastal California (95062). I’m looking to insulate our exterior 2×4 walls, which are currently uninsulated. Inside out, we have drywall – 2×4 – building paper – stucco. We’ll be insulating from the interior.

该网站耗尽良好,但土壤基本上是阀杆顶部的水平。灰泥延伸2“在杆壁上延伸,使其埋在污垢中。我不相信有任何妇女笨重。在土壤附近的家中北侧的灰泥中有一些区域。然而,总体而言也不错。

我的恐惧是,通过绝缘房屋,我可能会导致水分问题。有什么我应该做的是谨慎的一面吗?完全重新腐烂和外部绝缘不在预算中。

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答复

  1. 专家成员
    达娜·迪斯特||#1

    处理灰泥的极端峰值水分驱动器需要建筑纸和绝缘层之间的气隙。半英寸通常足够好。

    Any fiber insulation needs an air-barrier on the exterior side facing that gap too. My preferred method is to install 1" wide strips of 1/2" foil faced polyiso as spacers on both sides of the studs
    and one mid-way between the studs as spacers using a thin bead of foam board construction adhesive to make it stick to your building paper. Use cut'n'cobbled 1/2" foil faced polyiso as the air barrier, with a foil facer facing the air gap, which adds another ~R1 to the performance, and blocks extreme moisture drives when the sun is driving the moisture out of the stucco from reaching the cooler interior side.

    切割大约一个半英寸较窄/短于腔空间的空气坝。用泡沫板建筑粘合剂的DAB定位,用一个带有体面的温度额定箔HVAC胶带胶带的任何接缝,然后密封泡沫和框架之间的四分之一英寸周边间隙。

    For milled 3.5" 2x4s that would eat up 1" of cavity depth, leaving 2.5" for fiber insulation, for full-dimension 2x4s it would leave 3". The foam layer is worth R3, the air gap with the foil facer another R1, and compressing a "contractor roll" R13 into 2.5" would perform at about R10, compressing it to 3" would be about R11.5. Blowing it full of cellulose would deliver R9.25/R11 for 2.5"/3" respectively.

    如果它是一个全肠道康复(包括修剪),您可以负担不到一英寸的内部空间,从1英寸的螺柱宽边缘条带出1“聚裂(或全尺寸2x4的半英寸Polyiso)将允许使用全深的高密度R15玻璃纤维或R15岩棉,将总腔R带到靠近当前IRC代码最小R20的东西。但即使它在中心腔处只有R19-ISH,也是在框架上的1“聚四亚中使大多数墙壁非常满足U-Factor的最低限度。

    更多的:

    看:https://www.greenbuildingadadadisor.com/article/insion-walls-in-an-old-house-with-no-sheathing.

    如果屋顶悬岩浅和灰泥s often wet, it may be worth venting your gap spaces with up to a 1" hole at both the top and bottom of each stud bay (whatever diameter fits whatever purpose-made bug-screened vent plugs are available near you) to allow the space to convection-vent whenever the stucco temp is higher (or lower) than the outdoor air temp: eg"

    https://ventmastersstore.com/products/1-round-open-screen-vent-tab-style-mill?variant=5129870596¤cy=USD&utm_campaign=gs-2019-11-13&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInNLbqPSS5wIVC5yzCh1d4Qx4EAQYBSABEgLikfD_BwE

    有2'突出的,没有飞溅,可能不是必要的。大多数新的灰泥通过底部的通风口熨平起,仅在顶部没有通风,允许完全对流通风。只有螺柱托架的底部发泄可能就足够了,这就是它最多的地方,因为底部是任何入射的散装水分最终的含水。

    1. 史蒂夫戴维斯||#2

      达娜 - 非常感谢您的详细回复。我已经阅读了关于绝缘一座没有护套的老房子的文章,并且这已经重新了解了我的想法。

      跟随-up - We are yet to begin demo. If we find that sheathing is installed, can batt insulation simply be put into the cavity? I'm still cautious about the buried stucco and lack of weep screed.

      Additionally - if possible, I'd love to avoid the use of foam (embodied energy, potential off-gassing, added cost). Does the use of mineral wool batts and my relatively mild climate affect your response at all, for both the sheathing scenario and lack of scenario?

      我的猜测是矿物羊毛可以略微有助于玻璃纤维疏水,但它仍然不是空气屏障。我想我正试图弄清楚在任何一种情况下都能放弃多自然。如果没有护套是一个可怕的想法,我觉得正在思考那个是一个可怕的想法,如果有鞘是一种骰子?

      再次感谢你。

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