舌槽吊顶和外部硬质泡沫屋顶保温
嗨..这种情况提到的是在马里兰州东北部的一个故事牧场区。我目前具有由4×6暴露的梁4'o.c的非排气屋顶。通过整个房子除了在牧场的每一端的宽度的1/2上的小“拱形”部分,其中光束不易易于访问。当前在我的屋顶上的护套/绝缘是2“是原始的母婴板,所以我相信1972年。很多面板都是下垂和损坏的水。该面板是R-5,其中乙烯基屏障连接到面板下侧,这是您在房屋内看到的成品表面。I have been researching and studying this topic of vaulted /cathedral non vented roof assemblies and the right way to re roof my structure to no relief .i don’t want to stick with homasote panels after seeing how bad they have failed due to mutiple reasons. I paid a local structural engineer to give me an awnser and he wants to demo out homasote (agreed is a must)seat cut and drop in 2×12’s 24”o.c. Then 5/8 cdx sheathing with 1-2 “ ccSF sprayed under the roof sheathing then r-38 fiberglass batts in order to reach current code of r-49 with Kraft faced seal to structure .. then smart vapor retarder before drywall . Some areas inside the house arent readily accessible to execute the insulation to underside of decking. I understand his approach but 1,700 sq ft of this style installation plus demo of multiple areas of fine wood work and bringing in multiple installers for multiple bids..loss of exposed beams and just the astronomical cost to do the extensive job( I’m on a budget and don’t think I can afford this method) I’m searching still for another awnser. One recommendation from a contractor the other day was to use t&g then insulate from outside with rigid foam panel insulation . I contacted my local code office they stated 2×6 t&g will suffice or 3/4 cdx using h clips for the 4’ span between rafters .Also they stated no r value met Is necessary just” get in” what I can since it’s existing structure and built before r -values were regulated in Maryland. So my question is that does anyone think the ladder idea of t&g and the rigid foam outside will be ok opposed to what the engineer wants? And for the sandwich would t&g or 3/4 cdx directly to beams- grace water and ice (or some other smart vapor barrier) – then 4 “ of polyiso then 5/8 cdx then roofing g materials . At edges of the sandwich use spray foam to seal for air barrier. Then inside the house between rafters at top plate cut 2” polyiso to fit and spray foam to seal edges. Any input or suggestions is needed direly.
回复
我认为外部T&G具有自粘膜的外部T&G溶液可能是最具成本效益的,并保持您现在的外观。使用OSB / CDX解决方案,您必须使用内部覆盖护套,除非您购买了一些非常昂贵的胶合板,否则不会很漂亮。
如果您在4英寸的Polyiso和23/32之间添加了2x4,则可以有效地保持通风屋顶,保持通风空间。
如果你已经开始喷泡沫了,我就不麻烦你了。让那人在那里拍,几小时就能搞定,而不是几天。这样密封效果会更好。
对我来说是个不错的计划。
约翰,
我同意凯尔的观点。唯一棘手的地方可能是外墙以及如何处理悬垂部分。你将需要一些方法要么终止T&G或空气密封底部和沟槽,他们通过墙壁。
我想修改一下我的回答,约翰。
如果你打算把所有的绝缘材料都放在外面,我会考虑在你有机会的时候增加厚度。4“polyiso在寒冷,1.5“木材从T&G只给你大约R24。你可以用辐射屏障和空气空间做一些游戏,但并不重要。如果你能负担得起,这可能是值得花的钱。
在这一点上,厚度真的不是那么重要。你将需要“长螺丝”,因为它是,你将需要重做筋膜无论如何。
正如另一所代表所说,T&G加上刚性是去的方式。由于泡沫直接支持新的屋顶甲板,因此可以保存一点并为新甲板提供7/16澳元为1/2“CDX。
Malcom提出的问题很重要,两块板之间的空隙很快就形成了一个很大的洞。我喜欢从墙板上方的顶部钻穿T&G槽,并在缝隙处注入SPF来密封。
确保剥离和粘贴是丁基或丙烯酸基的。改性沥青可以与木材中的汁液(与新松T&G问题)和渗出物发生反应。清理起来不舒服。
画框的周长为刚性,边缘高度为2x,以保护边缘。你不会想要任何小动物可以进入的空间,因为它们喜欢在坚硬的泡沫中筑巢。
谢谢你们. .我要把这些东西拿给我的承包商…请继续关注,我可能还有一些问题。非常感谢你的建议。