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空间和成本效益的地下室绝缘

Ctsnicholas|Posted in一般的问题on

我正在努力绝缘地下室卧室。房间位于地下室的角落,有8''倒混凝土墙,目前没有隔热层。它位于5B区。

最初,我从2英寸XPS或Polyiso粘合到混凝土的想法开始,然后运行1×4的冷冻条,然后垂直垂直。电盒的深度很少。

Soon I realized the thickness of this wall is dang near that of a 3.5″ 2×4 stud wall. 2″ foam + 3/4″ horizontal 1×4 + 3/4″ vertical 1×4 = 3.5″ thick.

现在,长大后阅读GBA我知道,在螺柱之间具有玻璃纤维的替代性,2×4螺柱墙有潜在地使我能够产生R-13 vs r9或r10,但带有2×4的热桥,R-13更接近无论如何,R10,我担心水分问题。

因此,GBA,如何建造2×4螺柱墙壁,从混凝土中大约1/2英寸,然后在螺柱之间添加非常便宜的隔热材料(纸张面对的玻璃纤维),然后将其称为一天?墙壁从来都不是完美的,所以我现在可以在其他地方有5/8英寸的缝隙,甚至可能在1/4英寸之间有5/8英寸的缝隙,因为我现在可以倾斜2×4螺柱墙。我可能输了1/2英寸,但我节省了$$$,环保主义者有些快乐。只要我的玻璃纤维不碰到混凝土墙,是否有什么可担心的?边缘托梁仍将用刚性的泡沫隔离,但这在这堵墙之上。在这种情况下,不使用纸张绝缘的关键是吗?我讨厌使用这些东西,因为它很难安装并保持到位并保持干净的安装。

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答复

  1. GBA编辑
    马丁·霍拉迪(Martin Holladay)||#1

    尼古拉斯,
    问:“只要我的玻璃纤维不碰到混凝土墙,有什么要担心的吗?”

    答:是的,有很多值得担心的事情。您将在冷混凝土墙的内侧得到凝结,地板上的水坑。

    遵循此处给出的建议:“如何隔离地下室墙。”

    1. Ctsnicholas||#3

      Martin, long time no see. Thanks - My GBA knowledge has slipped these past three years since I originally was involved in building. I remember doing a poly-iso build out in a few rooms in another home.

      If I use 2" of XPS to get R10, then 1x4 firring strips I do not get the recommended R-15. I suppose the best and most cost effective method is 1" of XPS foam then a 2x4 wall with unfaced fiberglass between the studs? Or would 2" be required to help the condensation point. Either way that concrete should have the foam as a vapor barrier to prevent that air from touching the cold surface, and then the R5 1" XPS + R13 stud wall should give me about R15 real insulation value.

  2. 专家成员
    达娜·多塞特(Dana Dorsett)||#2

    巴茨两侧需要一个全空的障碍物才能达到数字,尽管气隙较低,但螺柱会产生霉菌的现实机会。

    With an all-foam solution there is no need to run 2 layers of furring- one is enough, and it can even be installed in a dado cut into the foam if depth space is that valuable. It's not tough to make channels for the wiring with a router, and can-foam or pack the channels with rock wool or fiberglass. With 3" of cheap reclaimed roofing polyiso (~R16.5-R17, and usually cheaper per R per square foot than batts) and let-in furring in a dado with half inch gypsum tight to the foam it would even hit IRC code minimum on a U-factor basis despite the thermal bridging of the let-in furring. That would be code-compliant, and only 3.5" from concrete to interior paint.

  3. 用户-5574861||#4

    我最近Insofast 2.5”EPS板用于脑岛te a new construction basement. They have electrical raceways and plastic studs 16" OC. You glue them to the concrete with Loctite PL. You can then attach additional insulation with a couple of screws and prong washers to hold it place before adding the drywall. Sounds like you would need 1" of polyiso to hit code in your area. No stud wall needed but at 4" from concrete to paint, a little deeper than Dana's suggestion. Personally, I prefer gluing things to concrete than trying to use mechanical fasteners which is why I went this route.

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