为什么霉菌/霉菌在我的刚性泡沫后面生长？
So I had started to finish my basement area and read all of the articles on GBA. I was using 2” of XPS foam on the cinder block walls and recently had to remove a bunch to access an area for the egress window. When I pulled it off, I was surprised and scared to see that I had black stuff growing on the cinder block. I don’t know if it’s mold or mildew, but it can’t be good, right? You can even see how it’s growing around the foam adhesive that I used to attach it to the wall.
不确定为什么会这样。我将地下室保持在不到50％的RH，并且水没有问题。实际上，我将纸板箱放在平板地板上多年，没有任何问题。
What should I do? Thanks.
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杰伊，
The mold is normal and harmless. Don't panic.
First of all, the soil around your house is always damp. It's already full of mold. It's outdoors. Don't worry about it.
We use rigid insulation in this case to create a thermal boundary or envelope for you house. Everything on the exterior side of the thermal boundary -- in this case, on the exterior side of the rigid insulation -- is outdoors. Everything on the interior side of the rigid foam is indoors.
Ideally, you will install the rigid foam in a continuous layer, striving for an airtight insulation. Once it's installed, resist the temptation to peek behind it. (Unless, of course, there is a compelling construction-related reason to peek.)
您的混凝土块是潮湿的，因为它们与潮湿的土壤接触。他们将永远潮湿。
If your basement has no water entry problems, the fact that the soil is damp and the concrete blocks are damp is OK.
The interior side of your rigid foam should stay dry and mold-free. Make sure that you install a layer of gypsum drywall on the interior side of the rigid foam for fire protection. As long as the drywall is mold-free, don't worry.
For years, the inside surface of your concrete-block wall has been contributing moisture to your house. The water has been evaporating (which is why the concrete blocks feel dry). By installing the rigid foam, you will be cutting off this moisture flow from the concrete blocks to the interior of your home, improving the indoor air quality. That's good.
Thanks for your responses.
Martin, I appreciate your detailed response. My interpretation from you is to "don't worry about it" as long as I take care to properly seal for an airtight layer.
当我阅读有关XPS如何破坏环境时，我将使用EPS进行地板绝缘。既然我现在有XPS，那么值得用模具杀死油漆对其进行油漆吗？还是我应该移至EPS以促进更干燥的代替XPS？
Thanks.
杰伊，
如果您已经购买了XPS，请使用XPS。您不需要粉底墙即可向内干燥。（这只会给您的房屋增加水分负担，您不想要。）
我不会去试图杀死模具。只需将XPS放回并停止思考即可。
The patterning on the wall appears to follow the mortar joints and possible seepage at the mortar seam 2.5 blocks above the slab. It's worth taking look on the exterior above grade at that point to see if there isn't something going on near that potential seepage point, such as a low spot in the surface grading, or grading that tips toward the foundation rather than away from it, a broken dripping spot on the gutters, or anything that would make the ground damper there than elsewhere.
Even though it doesn't look like enough seepage to be a real problem, the less bulk water that makes contact with the foundation, the better.
只要你有至少英尺或更多以上grade exposure on the exterior it's unlikely that enough moisture will wick up to the foundation sill to cause a problem. But if you have chronic bulk water wetting of the foundation it needs more drying capacity. Painting the exterior of the CMU above grade can be a mistake if there isn't a good capillary break at the foundation sill. I've read of a house with painted CMU walls for the first floor and a wood framed second floor, where the moisture wicked all the way to the second floor after the foundation was insulated, in part due to polyethylene vapor barriers in the finish wall on the first floor too. Prior to insulating the basement it had been fine. Had the bulk water been better managed or the CMU left unpainted on the exterior, it probably would have continued to be fine.
知道了. Thanks everyone!
Was it only in the lower parts?
您可以尝试用漂白剂+水清洁墙壁，涂上诸如Zinsser Watertite/Mildew之类的油漆，并使用未取代的EPS（它的渗透性比XPS更高，并且可以使内部更干燥）。密封它，以至于没有机会在其后面流动。
Don't be surprised if you smell mold (air sealing is never perfect) and need more extreme methods. I have a section of basement wall where the lower 1/3 can't be covered - doing so causes less drying and occasional water on the floor. Digging down to the footing drains to fix the drainage just isn't cost effective.
http://www.nlcpr.com/basementinsulation.pdf
I'm glad I found this discussion, as I just started to finish my basement for a 20 x 20 living space in my 30-year old house. My walls are cinder block painted with moisture resistant Drylock. In a few areas, some dusty effervescence still seeps through but no water, and I scrape and repaint periodically for appearances. I have a 2-inch perimeter interior french drain actually (1-7/8" wide) with a sump pump that goes on during heavy rains and does its job.
I plan to first install 2-inch XPS rigid foam on the walls and build 2x4 stud walls next to the foam panels. The rigid foam will sit on top of the drain which will still get air flow from the unfinished basement area to address dampness. I'm wondering if I should install a vapor barrier underneath the lower portion of the rigid foam and the 2x4 base plate on the slab to further isolate any moisture in the perimeter drain. Would like any advice. Thanks.
If it's not too late, change the XPS to EPS, or better yet, polyisocynurate. XPS is blown with HFCs that are extremely powerful greenhouse gases (>1000x CO2) soon to be banned for that application in the Kigali amendment to the Montreal Protocol. Both EPS and polyiso are blown with hydrocarbons, predominantly variants of pentane, at about 7x CO2. In the case of EPS most of the HC leaves the foam before it leaves the factory, and is recaptured.
The performance of XPS declines over time as the HFCs escape. The manufacturers only warranty 90% of the labeled performance (which would be R9 at 2"), but at full depletion it's performance drops to that of EPS of similar density.
如果粉底在季节性潮湿或有漏水的病史，则使用墙泡沫和粉底之间的凹痕垫，谨慎，以使任何散装水迅速离开您的外围排水管。
如果使用polyiso，重要的是要保持底部的切割边缘在任何洪水的高潮标记上方，而不是放在平板上，它可能会随着时间的流逝而捕捉地面水分。
谢谢，达娜的分析。我确实购买了几个XPS面板只是为了检查工作的细节。观看了EPS和XPS的一些比较后，我倾向于XPS。一位消息人士称，XPS的性能更好，因为它的“闭合细胞结构”可防止与EPS吸水更少的吸水。对我而言，目前，此因素比XPS的HFC排放率更高。但是，我都没有排除。EPS更便宜，我喜欢。所以我会做更多的思考。
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aih4zxee60g
EPS is closed cell foam too. The primary difference it the interstitial spaces between the macroscopic beading of the foam, not the cell structure. Even under slabs EPS holds it's own. The only time there's an appreciable differences is when buried in potentially saturated soil.
Foil faced polyiso is waterproof except at the edges, and is also cheaper per R than XPS. Unless you're anticipating a flooded basement polyiso (even fiber faced roofing polyiso) is fine, and has a higher R/inch.
达娜，毕竟我不需要XPS/EPS泡沫。我应该首先与我的乡镇检查员进行检查，该检查员告诉我，我只需要在螺柱墙上安装的玻璃纤维板，从煤渣块墙壁上安装了几英寸，而没有刚性泡沫。这给了我R-13的地下室墙。这也更简单，可以节省很多钱。
另外，对于任何有兴趣的人。在费城地区，我找不到Home Depot的EPS 2“ X4X8泡沫，Lowes已停止。
Thanks again for all the great information on this web site.
It’s risky to insulate basement walls with batts, especially when you already know you have moisture on your walls. Rigid foam is a much better choice regardless of if batts are permitted or not.
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Code is just a minimum. And in this case it's woefully lacking. Insulating a basement wall without foam is well understood to be a risky choice://m.etiketa4.com/article/how-to-to-sunsulate-abasement-wall
2x4墙中的瓦特很容易成为模具农场。在面对“几英寸”缝隙的板块的基础侧之间没有空气屏障，甚至无法执行规格。检查员可能会购买，但我不会。YMMV。
Even half-inch polyiso or 3/4" or 1" foil or vinyl faced Type I EPS (commonly found at box stores) held against the wall by the 2x4 studwall would be enough for dew point control on 2x4/R13, providing the necessary air-barrier on the foundation side of the batts, and puts a moisture barrier between the foundation and the studs/batts. The faced 1" EPS can be had in almost all Philly area box stores for about $15-16 for a 4' x 8' sheet, half inch polyiso for about $13-14/sheet. (Just checked- it's out there!) With the facers EPS is very low permeance and can't accumulate liquid moisture in the interstitial spaces between the beads unless submerged for days.
一层用过的2磅屋顶polyiso 2英寸厚绑在墙上的厚厚的毛茸茸的厚度将满足4A区的密码，而没有一个无泡沫2x4瓦特墙的水分或性能问题，并且价格便宜，通常为10-15美元每张纸（价格与R3-ish Box Store泡沫相同。）
材料在马库斯钩PA经常pallets of used roofing foam for dirt cheap (WAY cheaper per R than box-store batts.)
https://www.repurposedmaterialsinc.com
他们本周没有在库存中显示任何2“ polyiso：
https://www.repurposedmaterialsinc.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode= manfucturer&mid=13
他们确实有30张纸4“厚的x 2'x 4”（240平方英尺）的混凝土面向屋顶XP，这些XP可能在某人的地下室或爬网空间中起作用，但可能不是您的。
https://www.repurposedmaterialsinc.com/insulated-pavers/insulated-paver-4-x2x4-30pc/
If the project can wait it's worth checking in from time to time.
Dana，Zephyr7，尼克：我同意你们每个人。感谢您的研究。听到检查员只给我最低要求，我很惊讶，但也许我误解了。承包商也给了我类似的建议。
I do have the white efflorescence deposits appearing on about 10% of the wall areas. Cleaning and applying Drylock over the years helps appearance but it always returns. I do like the idea of rigid foam against the walls then stud wall batts to bring it up to R13. The 2" R10 XPS I intended to use is $30/4' sheet x 6 stud walls or $360. Prefer not to use 1" because of the 2" perimeter french drain. Cost is not a problem but I will check into the other less expensive materials since there's no hurry. I'm taking my plan and permit application to the township next week. Thanks for the advice and tips!
2英寸厚的Polyiso将一步一步为您提供R13，并且这是连续的绝缘材料，而无需从螺柱上进行热断裂，因此它的性能要比在托架中带有R13 Batts的螺柱墙更好。如果您选择像Dow Thermax这样的产品，该产品的侧面额定为裸露（并且它们制作为白色的版本），那么您可以将该Polyiso作为墙壁留下来。
如果您想要用于实用程序等其他目的的螺柱墙，那么您还有其他选择。您可以将螺柱放在多丽莎座上，或者建造墙壁，而不将其隔离，因为多丽莎（Polyiso）已经完成了所有绝缘的“工作”。如果您最终会以任何方式使用巴特，我将使用矿物质羊毛代替玻璃纤维，以提高耐水性。
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