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问答聚光灯

How to Insulate the Attic in a 1910 Remodel

A homeowner contemplating an energy overhaul of his North Dakota home weighs the options for insulating the attic

An attic in need of a helping hand:The attic of Tim Lange's North Dakota home offers several energy-related challenges, including inadequate insulation and framing that doesn't allow enough insulation between the rafters.
Image Credit: Tim Lange

蒂姆·兰格(Tim Lange)正在对他在北达科他州(North Dakota)的1910年房屋进行重大翻新,其中包括新的屋顶,外部喷雾泡沫绝缘材料以及新的门和窗户。他的难题是在阁楼上做什么。

“I think I’ve got a good handle on the exterior insulation process — using window bucks to create an ‘outie’ style window is the current plan,” Lange writes在GBA的问答帖子中。“三楼和阁楼是我需要帮助的地方。”

In the attic, Lange is dealing with three distinct zones: the area behind the kneewalls, the sloped ceiling in the living space, and the flat ceiling in the living space. He assumes the rafters are 2x6s on 2-foot centers. Judging from the photos he provides, none of it appears adequately insulated.

Lange is considering a number of possible approaches. “For the area behind the kneewall,” he writes, “one option would be to remove the fiberglass, add a layer of spray foam against the roof sheathing and finish with dense-packed cellulose to get the desired R-value,” he writes.

“I don’t see a way to effectively insulate the sloped section of the ceiling,” he continues. “There is just not enough room and it can’t be accessed easily. I suppose we could remove this part of the ceiling, fill the cavity with spray foam, then Sheetrock back over the foam. UGH. One suggestion was to dense-pack the area behind the kneewall and in the sloped ceiling area and pile lots of loose-fill in the main attic area. Not code-compliant, I know. But they do it out East.”

他可以将三楼的阁楼挖出来去除所有车床和石膏,然后将护套的下侧喷涂到R-49 - 这是他的建议...

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10 Comments

  1. TIM LANGE||#1

    Project Update
    Nice write up Scott; illustrates the complexities of the project and the trade-offs. The gutting of plaster and lathe and insulation is almost done. The roof boards are in very good shape, a few areas show moisture presence likely due to condensation.

    绘制的手绘显示在倾斜部分的下面的一层刚性泡沫。这被认为,但是当前的计划是将泡沫用作毛茸茸的条...

    For the thermal break on the underside of the rafters of the sloped section - planning to use strips of 1" thick XPS, 1.5" wide. Going to choose an XPS with high compressive strength (60 psi) since drywall will be attached through these strips and don't want the rigid foam to compress. The SPF will lap 1/2" over these 1" thick rigid foam furring strips.

    Calculated R for sloped roof assembly: Without any thermal break on rafters, the assembly has 4” of SPF (using R6.5 per inch), the overall R for 16” oc is R20.7. Adding 1” foam furring strips to bottom of rafters and increasing to 5” of SPF increases to R27.8. Increasing to 1.5” furring foam strips: R31.21. The framing is 24" oc, not 16" oc. Will soon have to decide how much headroom to give up in order to get more R.

    Interesting idea on the kneewall removal and re-install after thermal break installed. Too much effort.

    添加了一张图片,显示了70年代泡沫的沉降和收缩。

  2. Bo Jespersen||#2

    Great points
    Thanks as usual for a good article. We run into this in Maine all the time and I applaud the owner being able to do this right. My post is geared towards other ideas on this issue without removing the interior finish.

    I ask because typically, a client cannot afford to remove the interior finish in a 2nd floor cape & we are left trying to insulate as is. This usually means working around batting/loose insulation that is already in the slope that cannot be easily removed and sometimes eliminating all ventilation. Side attics are usually exposed like this one and are more easily upgraded with spray foam and are either vented (preferable) or not. The real trick, and my greatest bane, lies in how to handle those damn finished slopes.

    我们一直在密集地包装它们的年龄,纤维素显然是很好的结果,但是根据BSC证据和我研究的一项工作,这是有风险的。我能够在冬天拉开一个散布着一个浓密的斜坡,并伤心欲绝,看到它到处都是霜3英寸的内部装饰。我们推测,夏天的腔体吸收了水分,没有时间干燥冻结温度设置为。

    以下是我四处弹跳的一些选择,可以在没有排气的情况下对完成的斜坡进行反馈:

    1.)如果我们必须在没有排气的情况下隔离斜坡,我们就会开始使用吹岩羊毛或新的蜘蛛玻璃纤维绝缘而不是纤维素。这仍然会避开排气,但不会像纤维素那样吸湿,因此,如果没有吸收夏季潮湿的话,它应该更快地干燥。这是我的理论。

    2.) We insulate side attics, but unless we can remove interior finish as the owner did above, we don't insulate finished slopes at all.

    3)。我们看着浇注的泡沫like a good idea, but with the potential of old insulation still in the cavitiy, I have concerns of its effectivness.

    4.) That's all I've got!

    这使我夜间了,所以我可以使用一些新的建议:)

  3. GBA编辑
    Martin Holladay||#3

    Response to Bo Jespersen
    Bo,
    Thanks for sharing the anecdote about the 3 inches of frost on the exterior side of the cellulose-insulated slope. Anecdotes like yours reinforce my opinion that you don't want to use an air-permeable insulation -- even Spider insulation or mineral wool insulation -- in an unvented roof cavity.

  4. George Hawirko||#4

    How to Insulate the Attic in a 1910 Remodel
    Why Insulate an Old Wood Building it will only be a Total Wast of Time & Money.

  5. Bo Jespersen||#5

    Best to leave it alone then?
    Thanks for the quick response, Martin.

    3个问题;

    1.) If you cannot strip the finished slope, would you then leave the cavity as is (empty or poorly insulated) rather than take the risk?

    2.)您是否看到或听说过这些情况下使用的倒入泡沫?

    3)。Do you see any potentially ill effects of insulating the side attics with spray foam directly to the roof deck but then leaving the finished slopes untouched? I don't see a hazard here, but would love another opinion.

    Thanks!!

  6. Expert Member
    Kohta Ueno||#6

    注射聚氨酯泡沫(IPF)方法
    As a point of information, a *good* spray foam contractor might be able to insulate existing closed cavities using closed cell polyurethane foam and an injection method, through holes drilled from the interior. I note "good," because this is a somewhat finicky method--the installer is working "blind," and needs to do things like "timed shots" relative to the dimensions of the cavity in order to avoid underfill problems. Overfilling, of course, runs the risk of breaking or bulging interior or exterior finishes. Also, I believe a slow-rise formula is required; an infrared camera is often used as quality-control tool during installation.

    我知道这一点的主要原因是与目前是喷雾泡沫顾问的亨利·芬内尔(Henri Fennell)对话。该网页更多地谈论了该方法。

    Injected, poured, blown-in, or foamed-in-place (FIP)
    http://www.foam-tech.com/case_studies/historic_apps.htm

    如果这推动了商业主义的边缘,则表示歉意,但是亨利(Henri)正在教授有关这种方法的热门课程:

    注射聚氨酯泡沫(IPF)方法
    https://www.heatspring.com/courses/the-injected-polyurethane-foam-ipf-method/

    Obviously, existing closed cavity installations will be have R-values limited by the depth of the cavity.

  7. GBA编辑
    Martin Holladay||#7

    对Bo Jespersen的回应(评论#5)
    Bo,
    To give you enough courage to handle your next interaction with a homeowner, we're going to do a role-playing exercise.

    Bo [speaking to homeowner]: "In order to insulate this sloped ceiling, we're going to have to remove the drywall so we can install some closed-cell spray polyurethane foam."

    房主:“我的天哪!这将是破坏性和昂贵的!”

    博:“是的。”

    房主:“我不想这样做,因为它具有破坏性和昂贵。”

    Bo: "OK. Here's my card. Give me a call if you change your mind."

    这是我的意思:提出一种廉价的方式来隔离客户房屋并不是您的工作。推荐一种符合建立科学原理和最佳实践的绝缘方法是您的工作。这就是避免回调和诉讼的方式。

    如果房主希望您隔离膝盖后面的小三角形阁楼,则可以做到这一点。如果他们负担不起隔离倾斜的天花板部分,那就是房主的选择。如果倾斜的部分会堆积霜冻并开始滴落,那么只要您不隔离房屋的那部分,就不会是您的问题。

  8. Bo Jespersen||#8

    非常适应
    Two excellent responses gentlemen and I thank you. I will look into the pourable foam a little more and think HeatSpring is a great resource- perfect timing, Kohta.

    马丁(Martin)(我9岁,我最近一直在阅读我的旧卡尔文(Calvin)和霍布斯(Hobbes)书籍,我可以想到很多方法来减轻这种转化的效果:)是时候进行更改了。也许我愿意走开的意愿足以让他们了解用可渗透的绝缘填充腔的后果。正如Straube所说,并非每个屋顶都会使用这种方法失败,但是有些屋顶会失败。

    I have attached a great BSC report that really hit home for me.

    Thanks again and we will keep rockin'!

  9. Patrick Stuart||#9

    WAP standards
    只是为了增加通风问题,能源部先民herization Assistance Program (WAP) requires adequate ventilation prior to any attic insulation. Granted, most of what we do is loose-fill cellulose (knee walls and slopes are dense packed), but ventilation is key. Using blown fiberglass where you think there’s moisture isn’t a bad idea, e.g., we require it in mobile home floors for the same reason. It’s a little more expensive, but wet cellulose is basically ruined and then promotes mold. But the bigger issue is providing for adequate ventilation; we won’t install unless that’s addressed first.

    BTW: I’m all for a Bill Watterson and Gary Larson reunion tour. :)

  10. Bo Jespersen||#10

    Good info, Pat
    Thanks, Pat, and sounds like we have the same sense of humor:)

    因此,如果要求您密集打包成品坡度,如何维护或创建空间空间?您是否删除内部饰面并重新开始,还是想出一种将挡板挂在坡度上的方法?

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