使用无管的管道工程
我们真的很喜欢我们的第一个冬天，我们的MRCOOL DIY无管Minisplit，这是我们燃油炉的替代品（在5A区，CT）。当我们的炉子被卸下时，管道也是如此，但管道靴仍然存在。我们有两个分钟的头，一个在卧室末端的卧室和浴室“机翼”（约600平方英尺）的卧室里，直接穿过走廊上的开放式卧室门。即使在最极端的日子里，整个机翼也非常舒适，很少设置在65度以上。但是，晚上，我想让那间卧室的居民在需要的话上关闭门。在Minisplit的路径中，门口右侧有一个管道靴。我可以在“ T”中添加管道，并在线风扇将空气引导通过该管道靴并进入另外两间卧室？一个跑步总计为5-6英尺，另一跑约为8-10英尺。
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Following b/c I've been thinking of doing something similar and wondering if there are good recommendations for quiet in-line fans or how to add silencers to the ductwork to reduce room-to-room noise transmission.
将热量有效的with a fan requires a decently high temperature difference. Heat a 65F room with any heat load to speak of with 75F air requires moving a metric shit-ton of air (is that the correct units? :-) ) and gia-normous ducts to avoid generating a significant wind-chill effect. An open door & hallway is a big enough "duct" that a ~300 cfm wall-coil head blowing directly at the open doorway can move enough air to sort-of work, but with a normal sized duct the duct velocity & wind chill potential (not to mention the noise) would need to be quite high.
壁炉型迷你拆分在300厘米fm下输送不错的热量的能力取决于在头部110F-1220F的订单上的输出温度，高于平均房间温度高40-50F。要移动相同数量的热气空气，仅在目标房间的温度上方仅10 f，空气量为4-5倍。
因此，使用1200-1500 CFM空气处理程序（例如用于3.5-4吨中央空气系统的空气处理程序），您可以做到这一点，但您不喜欢结果。
What if the jumper vent is within inches of the mini-split head? Then the air should be a lot closer to the 110F-120F coming out of the head.
Something like this:
https://www.hvacquick.com/products/residential/bathroom-ventilation/pressure-balancing/tamarack-return-air-air-pathway-rap-pressure-pressure-relief
Located right above or below the mini split head. Combined with a several hundred cfm inline blower pulling air out of the attached room (and through the jumper duct).
继续做梦，但不要在这种方法上花任何钱...
Even at a few inches away the dilution with room air is dramatic with a return grille vacuuming up the warm-ish air near the mini-split head. Go ahead and measure the air temp 6" in front of the mini-split rather than directly at the output. It doesn't take much dilution to drop that temp dramatically, and with the nearby return grille drawing in air the dilution factor with other room air will be large.
If one keeps going with improving retrofit kludges it doesn't take long before it's at the same cost as adding another DIY mini-split (not that adding another oversized mini-split is a great solution.)
管道的迷你切片确实是解决热/冷却分布问题的更好（如果更昂贵的）解决方案，并且可以通过更合理的管道有效。凭借适当的尺寸（和较短）的管道，效率的命中率也不错。
由于Jennifer_M的管道靴子和寄存器仍然存在，因此（甚至很可能）有可能有效的小型迷你切片解决方案有效。先前的燃油量可能超大3-5倍，以用于设计负载，因此问题是是否有足够的速度或向现有寄存器投掷，但可以根据需要进行调整。随着出口速度低和低的投掷位置，回报寄存器的位置开始更重要，但是体面的风管设计师可能会使其工作，而无需完全撕毁它们并重新开始。
Heard and curious with a follow-up...
I'm facing a situation where I really wish we had put in a ducted minisplit, but we didn't; and bedrooms get uncomfortably hot in the summer.
Seems like our choice is probably between spending $5-6k+ to tear out the ceiling cassette and put in a ducted unit and trying to kludge some ductwork together which I can do DIY just for the cost of parts. I'm figuring a duct with an inline fan would definitely be quieter, more effective and less disruptive than our current strategy of putting box fans in the room doors? But is there a third option? Is there any market for used minisplit units or is that cost really down the drain if we replace it?
您有哪个天花板单元？
有些侧面有淘汰赛以进行转移管道。这些实际上是为了分发空气，但可以用更大的空间来供养房间。
There isn't much pressure there so you have to take care with the ducting and need a largish door undercut as a return.
@Akos -- I'm pretty sure it's an Mitsubishi SLZ-series 4-way ceiling cassette.. do those have the transfer ducts?
您必须检查您的单位。有些单元确实有管道淘汰赛，有些仅用于新鲜进气。
有关跳线的点数。
关于头部与空气处理人员：
For Mitsubishi, my understanding is that the outdoor units provided with the air handler kits are an older design and perhaps contribute to the efficiency hit:
//m.etiketa4.com/question/mini-split-heating-foricy-floity-floor-ceiling-mounted-mounted-vs-concealed duct
For Fujitsu, my understanding is that the outdoor units provided with the air handlers do not have pan heaters. Per your comments, the Fujitsu units are best in cold climates due to better thermistor operation at super cold temps. However, only the head-type units come with pan heaters.
对于LG红色，空气处理程序类型设备确实具有锅加热器。但是，这些是新的，并且不确定他们在冷温下的往绩和性能。
How is the MR Cool unit performing? I am thinking of going to a Perfect Aire 18k DIY model. This unit seems to be similar to the fourth generation MR Cool that was AHRA tested but not yet on the market; it has an HSPF of 11.6 according to NEEP. HVAC installed units (e.g., Fujitsu and Mitsubishi) have been priced well above reason around me...assuming you can even get an HVAC guy to respond to an estimate
嗨，尼克，我的MRCOOL DIY比我收到的Mitsu Hyper Heat的报价便宜27,000美元。我可以独自一人喜欢它，但整个冬天也表现出色。我设置了它，让它运行24/7，随着变暖的变暖，将其拨动降低。在最冷的日子里，我们需要壁炉（炉石Clydesdale插入物），但二月份只是糟糕的日子。
达娜（Dana），即使门打开，我们也需要在门顶部的一个小风扇才能将热量从大厅移动。风管靴中的风扇不会做同样的事情吗？原谅我的无知！
>...even when the door is open we need a little fan at the top of the door to move the heat down the hall. Wouldn't the fan in the duct boot do the same thing? <
A fan in an open doorway has effectively zero static pressure working against it to limit flow. If you narrow the outgoing pathway to say, a 10" x 10" duct boot or grille (100 square inches) down from a 32" x 78" door (~2500 sq. in.) with a 1.25" x 32" door cut (40 square inches) you have reduced the free path by more than an order of magnitude, which will cause a significant pressure difference across the fan reducing flow, even if the duct runs are blissfully short.
在5-10F温度差的情况下，只有没有风扇的开门门口适合100-200cfm（当场摇摆，而不是我测量的东西:-)）对流流过门口。100cfm（自由空气等级）风扇会产生更高的速度/抛出传出的流，从而在大厅内与空气更加混合，但不一定是流经敞开门口的总空气量的主要驱动力。它的功能可能像空气混合器一样多，但仍在进一步移动真正的热量。
Let's do some napkin math on a "maybe" solution. Assume you get a quiet, efficient 150cfm bath fan to drive your ducts, and assume you have an adequate return path so that it really drives 150cfm. The approximate thermal mass of air by volume is ~0.018 BTU/degree-F per cubic foot, so at a 10F difference (75F air into a 65F room) that's delivering 0.18 BTU per cubic foot. At a rate of 150cubic feet per minute is (x 60 minutes/hr=) 9000 cubic feet per hour, x 0.18 BTU/cubic foot becomes rate of 1620 BTU/hr. With duct losses & leakage or ANY significant backpressure you're probably looking at 1400-1500 BTU/hr, best case. That's enough to heat a small bedroom at typical CT 99% outside design temps, so it's at least theoretically possible, if the delivery air can actually reach as high as 75F, the ducts are short, straight, and air tight, with adequate returns paths. And that's blowing tepid air into a cool room. If it's only 72F air or only achieves 100cfm it fails. But even if it works, an efficient 150cm bath fan runs north of $200.
For an intermittently used guest bedroom there is a superior, cheaper, easier to install solution:
400 w (~ 1350 BTU / hr)电动板散热器be had WITH a wall-plug line voltage thermostat for under $150 through the big orange box store, or less than $125 for a wi-fi (not manual) wall-plug line voltage thermostat. This allows the occupant to set whatever temp they like for the hours the room is in closed-door use, and it's comfortable. Unless the closed-door occupancy rate is high it won't use as much electricity as a fan blowing a draft of tepid air into the room 24/7 just to keep the room temperature from crashing. Both the big blue & orange stores sell similar Amaze branded 400W panel rads, as well as 600W or larger versions. (Don't go bigger unless you've determined it really needs it), but you'll have to add the cost of a line voltage thermostat (hard wired, or plug-in) to the panel cost. (Amaze also offers a 250W version, but that's only ~850 BTU/hr, which may not be enough to cut it in the cooler winter days depending on the actual heat-loss numbers of the room you're trying to heat.) When the room isn't occupied, turn the panel rad off and leave the door open to keep the room reasonably warm, just as before. If the room is starting off at 63-65F the heat up time to 68F-70F isn't going to be very long with a panel radiator after the door is closed unless it's <15F (a typical 99% condition for coastal CT) outside.
Unless that room is going to be occupied with the door shut a LOT in the dead of winter, that's what I'd do. YMMV.
Thank you, Dana! I might try it, since I'll be doing it myself. The two runs will be short and straight, with solid ductwork, taped and insulated. I'll report back.
"For an intermittently used guest bedroom there is a superior, cheaper, easier to install solution:
400W（〜1350 btu/hr）电动面板散热器...”
我们有这些，它们很棒，但是有问题的小型头部位于那间卧室。因此，在罕见的时期将空气移开的需求是关闭的。
Seems to me your efforts maybe better spent finding and fixing the air leaks that are pulling the cold air into the cold rooms. Hint the warm air that is leaking out of you house may well be on the other end of the house and that air is being replaced by cold air leaking into the bedroom.
Walta