6.不。据我所知，你的计划不太可能行得通。听起来你只是在建一堵8-12英寸宽的地基墙，可能只会低于地面12-24英寸，然后是6英寸的“碎石”，这意味着不同的东西取决于你的位置。“砾石”在缅因州南部沿海(自由港/不伦瑞克)是沙子和小石头，有时高达4英寸。我更喜欢1"(更容易耙)或2"(一旦放置，坐几个月的雪或雨不太可能移动)“压碎岩”。无论如何，建议使用机械夯实。但是，更重要的是，如果是单独的倒酒，你需要在干墙或基脚下保温。你可能，就像在非常有可能，只是与机翼绝缘，可以放置相当浅(你将需要更宽- 4'将是万无一失，我猜)。然后墙底下什么也没有。 But If the wall is not very deep,I'd put foam under the bottom of the wall or the footing.You could dig the wing insulation up carefully and reuse under the earthen floor, and keep the outer one in place. The idea is that you are not allowing the frost to get into the soil around the wall and especially around the bottom of the wall, or the bottom of the crushed rock. Depending on the soil, filter fabric is a pretty good idea to prevent mud and dirt from infiltrating your crushed rock. The "rule of thumb" which is probably overkill, says to go out as far (horizontally) with the insulation as the potential frost would go deep vertically.In your case, you would need to go out 4' inside and out.In 2002, I built a insulated slab for a garage that overwintered.We removed 12" of top soil, replaced it with 2"foam plus 10" crushed stone. 6" slab with 12" wide and 12" deep edges sloping up to the slab itself - One pour. I used 1/2" rebar every 2 feet to reinforce the slab with fiberglass pieces in the concrete, with 2 levels in the thickened edges.The foam went only 2' horizontally all around beyond the slab which I thought I could get away with due to the 10" crushed rock, an extra large reservoir for rain water that might infiltrate under the slab. I studied the then current literature including the NAHB site,which is a good resource.This thickened slab ended up with a 24" high by 8" wide stone- backed- by -concrete wall to get all the wood 24"off the ground( and to look good- it was in the Fine Homebuilding book on garages.) It's been 12 years without trouble of any kind. OR - you could put the hay( every year for the life of the building) and hope that there's lots of snow (every year for the life of the building) I wish you the very best in your venture. Read - don't listen to a builders unless they seem really smart. No offense intended to builders, but many of them in this area don't understand any way to build that isn't what they usually do and what they know works.
回复
我会看看NAHB的出版物。
它解决了不加热的结构，独立的车库等。
我已经按照这些指导方针建造了几个独立的车库，上面有一位工程师的图章。
http://www.toolbase.biz/PDF/DesignGuides/revisedFPSFguide.pdf
摩西,
认为防冻浅基础取决于建筑物的热损失的想法是一种误解。有霜冻保护的浅地基可以用于车库等没有供暖的建筑。如果我是你，就不会担心。
有关更多信息，请参见Frost-Protected浅基础．
在你所处的气候条件下，指南对加热建筑的要求并不过分。升级到一个没有供暖的建筑的要求应该不会非常昂贵或困难，而且可能有助于您的能源性能的长期。然而，这些指导方针要求在脚底下使用泡沫。这样做成本不高，即使是在有暖气的建筑里也是个好主意，但有时让建筑商和检查员感到舒适是一个挑战。
如果你不这么做，马丁可能是对的，不管怎样你都不会有问题，但要确定的是，你可以在厚板上放一些额外的泡沫板，特别是在脚上，只是为了冬天暂时保持地面更好的温暖。干草，锯末，用防水布盖着。
(在没有供暖的建筑中，它的工作方式是，来自地面的热量，在你的气候中可能是50华氏度，通过地面向上传导。在地面上撒上泡沫可以保持热量，防止地面结冰。)
谢谢你的反馈。
有一件事我忘了提，这可能会影响到在冬天留下它是否是一个可行的选择，那就是地基只是一个干墙，而不是一个完整的平板，因为我们最终会做一个完成的泥土地板。所以这只是一堵里面填满砾石的墙。
不加热的指导方针的主要区别似乎是在所有东西下面6英寸的砾石层，考虑到我计划使用R12 Roxul舒适板作为垂直和水平隔热，这超过了我们气候区的最低值。
墙体信息是否改变了关于冬天将其放置的建议?
谢谢
摩西,
所以这毕竟不是一种防霜的浅底(除非我误解了)。这只是一个传统的周长壁基础，对吧?
如果是这样的话，你需要尽可能多地堆起干草来保护茎墙两边的立足点，并希望能有厚厚的积雪。
6.不。据我所知，你的计划不太可能行得通。听起来你只是在建一堵8-12英寸宽的地基墙，可能只会低于地面12-24英寸，然后是6英寸的“碎石”，这意味着不同的东西取决于你的位置。“砾石”在缅因州南部沿海(自由港/不伦瑞克)是沙子和小石头，有时高达4英寸。我更喜欢1"(更容易耙)或2"(一旦放置，坐几个月的雪或雨不太可能移动)“压碎岩”。无论如何，建议使用机械夯实。但是，更重要的是，如果是单独的倒酒，你需要在干墙或基脚下保温。你可能，就像在非常有可能，只是与机翼绝缘，可以放置相当浅(你将需要更宽- 4'将是万无一失，我猜)。然后墙底下什么也没有。 But If the wall is not very deep,I'd put foam under the bottom of the wall or the footing.You could dig the wing insulation up carefully and reuse under the earthen floor, and keep the outer one in place. The idea is that you are not allowing the frost to get into the soil around the wall and especially around the bottom of the wall, or the bottom of the crushed rock. Depending on the soil, filter fabric is a pretty good idea to prevent mud and dirt from infiltrating your crushed rock. The "rule of thumb" which is probably overkill, says to go out as far (horizontally) with the insulation as the potential frost would go deep vertically.In your case, you would need to go out 4' inside and out.In 2002, I built a insulated slab for a garage that overwintered.We removed 12" of top soil, replaced it with 2"foam plus 10" crushed stone. 6" slab with 12" wide and 12" deep edges sloping up to the slab itself - One pour. I used 1/2" rebar every 2 feet to reinforce the slab with fiberglass pieces in the concrete, with 2 levels in the thickened edges.The foam went only 2' horizontally all around beyond the slab which I thought I could get away with due to the 10" crushed rock, an extra large reservoir for rain water that might infiltrate under the slab. I studied the then current literature including the NAHB site,which is a good resource.This thickened slab ended up with a 24" high by 8" wide stone- backed- by -concrete wall to get all the wood 24"off the ground( and to look good- it was in the Fine Homebuilding book on garages.) It's been 12 years without trouble of any kind. OR - you could put the hay( every year for the life of the building) and hope that there's lots of snow (every year for the life of the building) I wish you the very best in your venture. Read - don't listen to a builders unless they seem really smart. No offense intended to builders, but many of them in this area don't understand any way to build that isn't what they usually do and what they know works.
我会采纳凯文的建议。
地基设计依据修订后的FPSF指南，低于等级14”。在那下面有一个12英寸宽，8英寸深。水平和机翼绝缘采用R12 roxul，远远超出了要求。指南有杆墙FPSF的例子，没有提到任何修改，所以我只是假设，我的唯一不同是，我将有一个3英寸完成的泥土地板，而不是混凝土板。
虽然听起来好像不是一个好主意离开它未完成,所以我可能要工作到屋顶和墙壁上和/或考虑倒薄的混凝土板,所以绝缘现在可以进去了,完成的泥土地板可以继续在未来混凝土。
谢谢你的帮助
摩西-听起来是个好计划。虽然我在这个网站上听说过它，但我从来没有用过低于等级的Roxul。我会考虑在Roxul上面和下面放置过滤织物，以防止灰尘渗入纤维，但我不知道是否有必要。祝你的大楼好运。