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关于如何从catheral天花板和木炉上方放下热量的想法

Turtle Pond|发布能源效率和耐用性

我的客厅有一个大教堂的天花板,一端有一个阁楼……。从炉子或木炉加热到天花板进入阁楼……我有一个吊扇顺时针旋转,以使热量和阁楼的地板风扇吹来,以吹热生活区域…
我认为降低上限…但这似乎a little claustrophobic….
any ideas?

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Replies

  1. 乔恩·R||#1

    It's better to mix the hot and room air at the source instead of letting it stratify and then trying to mix this lower grade heat. So I'd have a fan blowing directly across the stove.

  2. Steve Knapp CZ 3A Georgia||#2

    海龟池塘,

    You will have stack effect during the winter, but it can be more of a problem if you have a leaky house. Before dropping your ceiling, consider hiring a Resnet rater to evaluate your home. Air sealing and insulation will make your home much more comfortable.

  3. 专家成员
    迈克尔·梅纳斯||#3

    乌龟池塘,粉丝在开放的概念计划中真正做到的唯一的事情是,由于周围的凉爽空气,每个人都感到不舒服。正如史蒂夫(Steve)所说,她最好的办法就是使建筑物的信封密封。

    The biggest controllable cause of temperature stratification is air being drawn in low on the building (often at the rim joist area) and exiting at the ridge. The moving air carries heat with it. If you make your house reasonably airtight, you will still be left with a temperature differential due to the fact that warm air is more buoyant than cool air, so the second floor will always be a few degrees warmer, but the difference should be limited to 5-10° at most.

  4. Charlie Sullivan||#4

    正如史蒂夫(Steve)和迈克尔(Michael)所建议的那样,在解决任何空气泄漏问题之后,您可以考虑的下一步就是改善整个绝缘材料。随着建筑物变得越来越隔热,内部温度的均匀性变得更加均匀。密封空气泄漏将产生更大的效果,并且更容易,更便宜,但是如果您想进一步改进隔热材料,将是下一步。

  5. 专家成员
    迈克尔·梅纳斯||#5

    Good point, Charlie, and one I meant to make as well. Even if one does not want to add insulation to walls or roofs, most foundations would benefit greatly from a layer of insulation.

  6. Turtle Pond||#6

    Blower door test rated my house as being too tight...
    Also in loft area all along where floor meets wall there is a gap....apparently heat goes in there...travels up inside of wall to roof then goes outside where vents are in roof overhang....I've been told to fill this gap with spray foam...

  7. Turtle Pond||#7

    Also my house wall and roof insulation tested good as well as the doors and windows...

  8. Steve Knapp CZ 3A Georgia||#8

    海龟池塘,

    I don't think there is such as thing as too tight. What did the report show? Tight houses need a ventilation strategy. How do you currently ventilate?

  9. Turtle Pond||#9

    Steve, I don’t have results of blower door test but was told that a ventilation system would be a good idea but expensive...so I’m trying to find other ways to get fresh air in that wouldn’t have to be lots of duct work...

  10. 专家成员
    迈克尔·梅纳斯||#10

    There is definitely no such thing as too tight. High performance builders these days routinely get below 0.5 ACH50 (the lowest I've personally seen is 0.2 ACH50), which means the entire house has a composite hole about 2" in diameter. Some builders are getting even lower numbers, which is purely competition at this point.

    Your energy auditor may have said your home is tight enough that you should have mechanical ventilation. That's not a particularly tight house, just one that should have mechanical ventilation. If you have a gap where you know heat is being drawn out, your house is not very tight. Did your auditor give you a CFM number with square footage or volume, or an ACH50 number?

    我去过许多温度分层的高性能房屋。我设计的一个故事有四个故事,包括完成的步入式地下室和完成的阁楼。在堆栈效果方面,几乎是最坏的情况。建筑商在空气密封(0.25 ACH50)方面做得很好,并且隔热良好,几乎没有任何水平的温度差异。在频谱的另一端,我的一个家庭成员有一个制造的原木房屋,这非常漏水,并且在温度分布方面有一个巨大的问题。因此,我不提供理论建议。

  11. Turtle Pond||#11

    Michael...I have 1532 CFM AND 21ACH
    I SHOULD HAVE ACH.35 and CFM2527
    这是我的问题,以及高天花板和裂缝,热量进入墙壁和屋顶通风口。
    还有一个旧的燃油炉

  12. 专家成员
    迈克尔·梅纳斯||#12

    乌龟,我认为您是说您每小时的“自然”通风有0.21个空气变化,并且建议您每小时进行0.35的空气更换,这与Ashrae标准计算经常产生。(随建筑物的尺寸和乘员负载而变化有所不同。)这并不意味着您的房屋太紧,只是意味着您需要机械通风。

    机械通风是为了您的健康和舒适。该建筑的气密性是为了热舒适,节能和建筑物的耐用性。

    如果要降低温度分层,则需要使房屋尽可能密切(并添加通风系统),并尽可能添加隔热材料。炉子的年龄会影响您的能源费用,但不会影响室内温度。您可能会发现使用重新设计的热分配系统(例如,在强制热空气系统中重新定位或调整大小的管道,或其他底板热水辐射器)。但是,最好的爆炸是收紧建筑物信封。

  13. Dick Russell||#13

    Turtle, just to expand on what others already have said about air leakage, a blower door test gives you just an approximation of what air leakage may be at worst. But leakage depends on wind pressure and temperature difference, being worst when it's windy and bitter cold outside. When it's mild and calm outside, leakage is negligible. So nearly always leakage (thus "fresh air") is all over the place, from maybe far too leaky or even then not "leaky enough" to insufficient for human comfort. Worse, it's uncontrollable. That's why the thinking "the house shouldn't be too tight, it has to breathe" is a building strategy simply does not work. Thus the only strategy that does work is to make it as tight as possible and provide controllable mechanical ventilation.

  14. 道格·梅斯弗斯(Doug McEvers)||#14

    我同意上述海报,使房屋尽可能密度减少分层。我将从空气密封和绝缘天花板的优质工作开始,这通常是舒适转换的开始。

    Hello Dick Russell, have you been monitoring the performance of your house? If you don't mind sharing I would like to hear the latest results.[email protected]

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