Insulating Basement – Southern Part of Climate Zone 4
我居住在阿肯色西北部，气候区4距离气候区3边界不远。大多数人在这里没有地下室，所以似乎没有人知道最适合这种气候的地方。
我们生活在一个非常陡峭的斜坡上，将爬行空间转换成一个步行地下室（地下室10英尺的天花板）。在转换中，这些家伙在墙上做得很棒，主要是地下（坡度的上部）。他们放入法国排水沟，用焦油的物质处理墙壁的背面。我在地下室的水分为零，实际上非常干燥和舒适，当然已经大约4年了，但是我们在该地区有一些大雨，但我们仍然非常干燥。
Now I’m finishing the basement, I did not put foam board against the concrete walls because when we started we felt it was so dry we didn’t need to do that, this website now has me second guessing myself. I don’t want to take all my framing down now, so what do I do? I was going to put fiberglass bat insulation wrapped in plastic in the 2×4 wall cavities, will that be enough? Most people use those plastic wrapped fiberglass bats in their crawl spaces around here.
If that isn’t good enough, I have a few other options:
#1 option could be to fill the 2×4 cavity with foam board before putting the fiberglass bats after?
#2 spray foam the 2×4 cavities in the walls?
由于混凝土壁的光滑不完全，因此2×4墙壁之间存在天然的小缝隙和混凝土墙。是的，我确实在窗台上使用了压力，而不是其他螺柱。
最后，我用在没有阻塞污垢的山坡（走出部分）的混凝土砌块墙（我可以用与暴露于地球的墙（地下）的墙壁不同的墙壁（地下）的墙壁（地下）？
我知道，很多问题……感谢每个人的建议！
皮埃尔
GBA细节库
A collection of one thousand construction details organized by climate and house part
答复
皮埃尔，
建筑法规需要在您的气候区域内的地下室壁，如果在螺柱之间安装绝缘层，则至少有R-10连续绝缘或最少的R-13绝缘层绝缘。
现在您已经安装了螺柱墙，您将无法轻松安装连续的刚性泡沫。因此，您唯一的真正选择（假设您不想拆卸框架的墙壁）是使用闭孔喷雾泡沫。
使用玻璃纤维絮垫是ld be a bad idea.
Here is a link to an article with more information:如何隔离地下室墙。
The amount of moisture wicking up from the footing into the foundation walls will vary, and it's always obvious.
无论您做什么，在室内安装塑料都是一个真正的错误，因为它将螺柱捕获在蒸气屏障的地下水摩斯侧面。
The relative risk with fiberglass really depends, in your climate. There is the potential for wintertime condensation events on the above grade portion, but the concrete can take it, and if there is reasonable drying paths to the interior the risk could be pretty low. But the fiberglass will also wick moisture from a damp foundation out to the wallboard. Even a half inch of foam can do a lot to mitigate both ground moisture and wintertime condensation moisture issues.
Current IRC 2015 code min for zones 3 & 4 is R13 + R5 continuous insulation for above-grade framed walls, which would still be a reasonable to apply even below grade, yielding generous dew point margins.
https://up.codes/viewer/utah/irc-2015/chapter/11/re-energy-efficicy#n1102.1.2
1.5英寸的EPS或1“聚生物共生酸酯将是最好的选择。一层1英寸的XP会符合代码字母，但随着时间的流逝，它会失去性能，最终在数十年后跌至R4.2，因为它的气候破坏了HFC吹出的代理人消散。
感谢Martin＆Dana！
Martin, if you are recommending Spray Foam, will that protect my wood 2x4 regular pine walls from mold, my bottom plate is pressure treated? Again, my basement is a walkout on one side, so do I have to spray foam the concrete block walls that are not underground?
Dana, I wasn't going to install plastic, I was just going to use the insulation that comes lined in plastic by JM. It is supposed to protect the fiberglass insulation from collecting moisture. People often use it in crawl spaces in this area. The ends of the bats are actually not sealed in plastic so air still circulates throughout the bats so it's not a vapor barrier. I could cut a piece of foam board and place it on top the pressure treated bottom plate to prevent it from wicking up the fiberglass bats?
Your thoughts?
皮埃尔，
Q. "If you are recommending spray foam, will that protect my wood 2x4 regular pine walls from mold?"
答：只要您的粉底不被水进入，并且只要内部空气不会异常潮湿。
Q. "Do I have to spray foam the concrete block walls that are not underground?"
A. All of your exterior walls need to be insulated. That's a code requirement. Because concrete block walls can wick moisture, and can also get damp from the exterior, using closed-cell spray foam for these walls is a better choice than fiberglass batts.
Q. "I was just going to use the insulation that comes lined in plastic by JM. It is supposed to protect the fiberglass insulation from collecting moisture. People often use it in crawl spaces in this area. The ends of the bats are actually not sealed in plastic so air still circulates throughout the batts so it's not a vapor barrier."
答：我不建议使用这些巴特。它们可以在混凝土砌块墙和绝缘材料之间捕获水分。当您隔离低于年级的房间时，通常不希望墙壁组件中任何聚乙烯。您也不想要墙壁组件中的任何玻璃纤维棒。
好的，您说服了我，我将在墙壁上做闭孔喷雾泡沫。我有一个最后的问题，我发现了一家使用ICYNENE泡沫的当地公司。您对这种类型有意见吗，这对我的应用有益吗？再次感谢您的所有好建议。
皮埃尔，
For years, Icynene only sold open-cell spray foam -- so for many contractors, "Icynene" is shorthand for "open-cell spray foam."
这些天，ICYNENE也提供闭孔喷雾泡沫。只需确保您在同意承包商的计划之前就获得了合适的产品。
谢谢马丁！当销售人员过来时，我们谈到了开放式和闭孔的冰河，但他很清楚他将在我的安装中使用闭塞。他离开后，我正在对冰河的评论进行一些研究，并且大多数人谈到了它是开放的牢房，所以这就是为什么我征求您的意见。我发现的另一件事是，冰河是由异氰酸酯制成的，一种石化……我想知道这可以长期安全。是否还有另一种喷雾泡沫化学/化合物可能会在安装后造成较小的风险或您喜欢的风险？
ICYNENE的2磅密度闭孔泡沫（MD-C-200）被HFC245FA（一种强大的温室气体）吹来。ICYNENE具有两个“半开” 2LB泡沫（MD-R-200和MD-R-210），并用水吹来，这是适当的。两者都运行约R5/英寸（HFC爆炸版本为R6.6/英寸），因此您需要一个完整的2英寸才能在HFC吹出的泡沫中击中Code-Min R10连续的R10，而不是1.5英寸。
At 2" the MD-R-200 would ~2 perms, MD-R-210 would run ~0.8 perms. Either would be fine in this application at 2", but if going for an R13+ R5c.i. the more vapor-tight MDR-210 would be preferred.
http://www.jsjfoaminsulation.co.uk/docs/icynene-md-r-200-specification-sheets.pdf
https://www.icynene.com/sites/default/files/downloads/ProSeal%20Eco%20MD-R-210%20Technical%20Data%20Sheet_August%202013.pdf
所有聚氨酯和聚异烷酸盐泡沫均由异糖酸盐制成。如果安装过程中的混合物和温度和底物温度在规格之内，则健康风险非常低。大多数泡沫吹动设备具有相当精确的混合物和温度控制（可以通过安装程序调节），因此这实际上取决于安装程序的能力。获取参考。
Ok Martin, I'm down to 3 different installers in the area, here are their products as closed cell options...
Heatlok XT vs Profoam 11-033 vs Proseal（MD-C-200V3）
我的妻子真的非常非常担心这些化学物质被介绍给我们的房子。当然，她在互联网上的喷雾泡沫装置中看到了一些恐怖故事，并且很担心。因此，在房屋中，质量/VOC的质量和风险低，是否有偏爱。我们确实有很小的孩子。当他们应用产品时，我们肯定会离开房屋至少24小时（也许是48），然后我们让房子“空中”。那你会倾向于哪个？
As you mentioned, the installer is very, very important and when it comes to that side of the decision, I think by far the Heatlok installer would be the most 'professional' of the three, they only do Spray Foam (no drywall, gutters, etc) and have been doing it for 23 years and do ~25 jobs/week and do installations for most of the big builders in the area.
虽然，他确实不同意您的建议，但他在这个地区说，即使在数百万美元的房屋的地下室中，他几乎只安装开放式牢房（Demilec Selection 500）。话虽如此，他说他没有做任何我们想要的产品的问题，但是我的情况很惊讶我需要闭合牢房。
So what are your thoughts??
皮埃尔
I was reading more about spray foam and found a quote on page #2 of this article:
http://www.ecobuildingpulse.com/products/product-review-spray-foam-insulation_o?o=1
"Because of the open cell structure, open-cell foam allows some vapor to pass through, making it a good choice in hot, humid climates, and under roof sheathing, such as in conditioned attics, where water vapor caught between insulation and sheathing could promote wood rot."
We have very high humidity where we live, it's probably 4 solid months in the summer. And even in the winter we have a very damp cold, that goes right through your clothes, so wouldn't this mean that open cell would be better in our area. Or is that only for the upper levels of the house and in the basement closed cell is still the way to go?
皮埃尔
皮埃尔，
The position expressed in the quote you share is ignorant. Yes, open-cell spray foam is vapor-permeable -- meaning it allows water vapor to pass through it. But that doesn't mean it's a better choice than closed-cell spray foam in your climate zone.
When insulating a basement wall, you certainly don't want water vapor to travel through the foam from the damp side of the wall (the exterior) to the dry side (the interior). That's why you want closed-cell spray foam in this location.
When installing spray foam on the interior side of roof sheathing, you don't want to allow interior humidity to travel through the foam and reach the roof sheathing. Open-cell spray foam in this location causes all kinds of problems. To learn more about this issue, see this article:High Humidity in Unvented Conditioned Attics。
向您保证喷雾泡沫的危险：绝大多数喷雾泡沫工作都没有问题。如果您选择一个拥有良好声誉的经验丰富的承包商，则不应有理由担心。
皮埃尔，
I see your preferred installer reps Demilec and I was wondering if he discussed their HFO product? It uses Solstice as the blowing agent, so very low GWP. While not relevant to your situation, it can also be applied in a 6.5" lift, so they claim you can get an R-49 in a single lift.
As always thanks Martin! He never mentioned the HFO version, just the XT version. My guess is they haven't used that product since he didn't mention it. Should I try to get him to install that version even though he probably doesn't have experience with it? And, based on your comments, are you suggesting I should go with the Demilec installer/brand versus the other installer/brands?
他实际上今天早上回应了我...顺便说一句，我称您为能源顾问...
"We can get the HFO, but to be real honest you aren’t going to notice a nickel of difference on performance for the extra money you spend. I understand how energy consultants view r values, but both XT and HFO are a 2.17-2.2 density and will perform the same at 2” on your concrete walls. Again it’s more about proper installation and we have seen good adhesion and results with the XT. Always a difficult transition to new chemicals as you change the pattern, temperatures, pressure, etc.."
Your thoughts?
感谢乔纳森·劳伦斯（Jonathan Lawrence），糟糕只是注意到我不再与马丁打交道。
与〜r6.5/英寸或其他相比，它无关〜r7/英寸。与HFO泡沫一起使用的原因与性能的极小增长无关，但与HFC245FA（〜1000x CO2）的极高的温室潜力相比，与HFO1234ze的全球变暖潜力非常低有关。（<5x CO2，对于HFO 1234_ _的任何变体）。
在未来十年内，国际协定将禁止HFC245FA在此申请中以与蒙特利尔协议从泡沫申请中取出的CFC和HCFC的方式相同。随着吹式代理的任何变化，都有学习曲线，但是制造商已经努力了几年，现在已经准备好了黄金时段了。安装人员很难阅读手册并相应地调整设备，但是有些只是不愿意远离他们经验和舒适的东西，他们知道工作，或者必须训练机组人员来设置工作设备的方式不同，来回换档等。
承包商更容易“设置和忘记”，调整设备一次，让船员记住魔术数字，然后让机组人员用立方英亩的泡沫来抓住它，然后再对其进行调整。但这既不是火箭科学，也不是耗时的。
HFO Blown泡沫的真正优势是安装程序，它可以安全地应用于4英寸或更大的升降机中，而大多数HFC吹泡沫仅限于大约2英寸，然后才会收缩和粘附问题，甚至在期间发生了火灾危害问题养护。IIRC DeMilec声称您可以在一次通行证中安装完整的R49（在凉爽的气候下为屋顶的IRC代码最小值），如果书本这样做，这将在HFC吹出的泡沫中进行四次通行证。（许多人会推动限制，并将安装3英寸或更多时间，但是当他们这样做时会有质量和火灾风险。）HFO吹动的泡沫，这不是问题。
皮埃尔，
很高兴的帮助。他真的错过强g the product, though. As Dana points out, a lot contractors like to"set and forget" so I am not necessarily surprised. I run into this issue all the time.
I did have chance to stop by the Demilec booth at ABX Boston last month and it was the first time I saw anyone marketing an HFO product. They did tell me that the cost of the raw material is slightly more expensive, but labor savings can easily offset that in applications that would normally require multiple lifts.
Thanks Dana, Johathan & Martin, I really do appreciate all the inputs!
I think it's imperative for the green building community to push for the rapid transition to HFO foam. We've been spraying LaPolla Foam-Lok 2000 4G for a couple years and really like it. I asked my lead foam tech at the time we switched, and he told me that the learning curve really wasn't all that steep--a conversation with our sales rep, a little tweaking of the reactors settings, and we were there. This biggest adjustment was getting used to laying down the thicker lifts, which in the long run saves time and increases yield.