WW2 ERA 1.5层内改装 - 哪种绝缘类型/方法？
美好的一天GBA！
首先，我想对这个论坛表示感谢。这是一个真正的资源！
I’ve read all the articles, blogs, and Q&A’s regarding my objective, but I have not been able to find what I’m looking for with regards to my current situation.
A bit of background here… I believe I am in climate zone 7 (Thunder Bay, Ontario). Ive got a WW2 era 900 sqft (newspaper found in the walls from 1948) 1.5 story home with virtually no roof overhangs. all framing (wall studs and rafters) is full dimension 2×4’s, aluminum siding, thick felt paper, 1×6 shiplap plank siding, and stud bays filled with wood shavings.
我的盛大计划是在屋顶上完全施加剥离和棍子，然后是新窗户，轮辋托柜密封，并重新建造的屋顶悬垂。不幸的是，该企业的现实正在褪色。
我开始从里面锻炼小的第二个故事。我打开了一些墙壁来发现几层墙纸，其他纸/纸板产品，几层石膏和螺柱托架，以含有大规模定居的木屑。Shiplap Plank护套缩小了各种板之间的大差距，露出墙壁外部和屋顶上的粘性屋顶衬底之间的沉重毛毡。膝盖墙只有1.5英寸的刨花。小阁楼有一些蓬松的岩石羊毛，并没有发泄。
我的直接计划是为了肠道整个二楼内部，因为目前的布局是无用的，完整的卫生间需要工作。
尽管保温/空气密封计划来说，请牢记以后做出外部刚性泡沫的可能性，但我理解我应该在内部使用可渗透的绝缘以允许向内干燥。我认为最理想的计划是使用封闭的电池喷雾泡沫来解决空气密封和绝缘。但是我想避免未来泡沫夹层，在任一方面都不能干燥。我已经注意到在板条护套中有一些干腐烂以及水处理的证据。我将把一些木板替换为我的内部。我的屋顶基本上是一个不坦于衷的大教堂天花板。
选项1 - （应该是最经济/简单/ Quick - R13 + R13）在螺柱内部安装螺柱托架（墙壁和天花板）的Roxul型号，加上2英寸的刚性泡沫。缺点：如果没有连续的障碍，贝蒂可能会从外部潮湿。问：蓬松的绝缘和螺柱/护套之间可以使用多/智能屏障，以防止水损坏吗？
选项2 - （昂贵但可能最佳性能 - R18 + R8）完全施加闭孔喷雾泡沫，在螺柱上有或没有额外的内部刚性泡沫。缺点：在后面的外部刚性泡沫，在后面的泡沫粘附泡沫后来难以弥补腐烂的垫片。
Option 3 – (time consuming, but fairly economical, good performance – R16+R8) Cut and cobble EPS with or without additional continuous interior rigid foam over studs. Cons: obviously very time consuming. The use of EPS would allow some interior drying if I did decide to do exterior foam in the future.
Unfortunately I do not have recycled rigid foam available in my area. Plan 1 is my intention at this point, but I am a little concerned with putting fluffy insulation in the stud bay with no real continuous barrier on the exterior. The foam on the interior would be detailed as the air barrier finished with either drywall or a panel board/hardboard. Canned foam would be used to help with this.
I would love to be able to do this job 100% “properly”, however budget doesnt allow for that at this point. I get that the total R value, especially for a cathedral ceiling, will be dramatically low for my climate zone, however it will still be a massive improvement from the R3-4 equivalent that was in there before.
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Replies
Josh,
在你提到你可以看到董事会之间的沉重感觉。如果是这种情况，那么你的护套外面有一个WRB，你应该在腔内没有任何蝙蝠问题。您仍然必须修复您的进入水中问题。泄漏+富裕绝缘是一个糟糕的组合。
Your option 1 is probably the best for DIY, just keep in mind that the insulation will need to be trimmed to fit between the studs since you have real 2x4s. I find that going with 24" wide metal studs batts turning them 90deg and then cutting them to fit is less work with trying to trim .5" off the sides. You will also have to seal all the ugly air leaks 1.5 story houses have.
切割和鹅卵石通常是浪费时间的巨大浪费，整体墙的R值与斯巴特大致相同（一旦考虑到螺柱的热桥），空气密封在长远来看。
Overall, air sealing is your bigger challenge. Spray foam is the easy way to do it, but you don't need to fully fill the cavity. About 1.5" to 2" is all you need, the rest can be fluffy insulation. You can strap out your walls to get the cavity depth back to 3.5". If you want even better wall than go with foam strips:
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2014/11/26/breaking-the-thermal-bridge
使用1.5英寸的SPF，穿上1“泡沫在螺柱上方会给你一个非常高的性能墙，没有太多的努力，做一个不错的空气密封工作。有了这个，你最终有类似R18墙的东西。
没有泡沫条的完整SPF（3.75“〜R24）只能是R13整体墙壁，并在泡沫中更好地花费。
Thanks for informing me of that method. Strapping put the wall with foam seems like a no brainer.
The only issue with this method, is it closes the door on future exterior foam, however this isn’t a forever home, and the ease of air sealing with spray foam is certainly appealing.
嘿乔什，
我不认为你说的你的椽深度是什么,just that any insulation would be inadequate, which seems to me to be a bigger concern than your walls. I like Akos' idea for flash-and-batt or flash-and-fill in the walls with a furred out, thermally broken assembly. You could do the same for the roof, if you have the headroom to spare. Fur down the rafters, and then install a combo of closed-cell and some type of fluffy insulation, carrying the insulation all the way down to the top plate so that the attic spaces behind your kneewalls are conditioned. Just in case you hadn't seen it, I included an article link below that may be helpful. I also agree with Akos that you need to fix any water leaks before you do any of this.
//m.etiketa4.com/article/how-to-build-an-批避到--cathedraliiles
谢谢你的所有建议。
I decided against furring out the studs, due to a bit of a time crunch...it's getting colder up here and I'm a one man show!
我在螺柱内部选择了4英寸的4英寸的Walltite CCSPF，加上2英寸的2英寸的Polyiso。每张多纸均用罐装泡沫密封。
如果有人拥有计算器或易于计算框架损失，我会好奇地觉得“整个墙”或“整个墙”或“整个屋顶”R值是什么。螺柱是16“OC，全维度2x4的。
The Walltite is rated at about R6/inch. 3.5" = R21
2“Firestone Polyiso LTTR = R 11.6
Total: R32.6
假设没有内部干墙，为整个装配的R30配备。与那里的内容相比很好。