答复

1. GBA Editor
   马丁·霍拉迪（Martin Holladay）|Jul 25, 2016 01:16pm|#1

   Andy,
   您需要与当地绝缘承包商或气候化承包商进行交谈。

   在全国大多数地区，像您这样的墙壁都用密集包装的纤维素（用于新英格兰目的的首选绝缘材料）或吹入玻璃纤维（大多数南部各州的首选绝缘材料）隔热。

   开孔泡沫喷洒承包商不安装l spray foam through holes in a wall. They want the stud cavities to be totally exposed, either on the interior side or the exterior side, before spraying the foam into the stud bays.

   一些承包商通过小孔将所谓的“注入泡沫”安装到封闭的螺柱腔中。这项工作很棘手，有时会导致爆发，因此大多数承包商都没有注射泡沫。除非您在您所在地区熟悉该产品的承包商，否则不值得考虑。

2. GBA Editor
   马丁·霍拉迪（Martin Holladay）|Jul 25, 2016 01:19pm|#2

   Andy,
   您写道：“我知道纤维素会随着时间的流逝而定，使顶部的差距在顶部保持一定的差距。”

   You're wrong. Properly installed (at a density of 3.5 pounds per cubic foot), cellulose won't settle.

   有关此主题的更多信息，请参阅How to Install Cellulose Insulation.

3. GBA Editor
   马丁·霍拉迪（Martin Holladay）|2016年7月25日下午01:23|#3

   Andy,
   Q. "As there is, and can be, no moisture barrier on either side of my leaky wood walls, will I have a moisture problem with either option?"

   A. Probably not, but every house needs to be inspected to determine moisture risks. To assess the risks, we would need to know answers to a lot of questions: Does your house have any sheathing, or is the siding simply nailed to the studs? How wide are your roof overhangs? Is it a one-story house or a two-story house? Is your siding painted? Have you ever had any signs of water entry near your windows? Are your windows equipped with any type of flashing?

4. Expert Member
   Dana Dorsett|Jul 25, 2016 02:14pm|#4

   The air tightness (or lack thereof) of the interior side hardwood paneling is a concern in a zone 5 climate.

   需要更好地描述墙壁堆栈，以说出什么有效（如果有的话），什么无效。

   是否重新解决一个选项？

5. 
   安迪·克尔（Andy Kerr）|2016年7月28日下午1:10|#5

   Thank Martin and Dana for your advice! Permit to elaborate in response to your questions.

   I've consulted with two insulation contractors. One who recommends cellulose and one who recommends open-cell foam (both only have equipment do do what they recommend).

   内部的所有墙壁都是对角线4英寸（我不确定正确的术语，但在后端下方狭窄的前沿）硬木板。

   外部壁板在4英寸宽，1（3/4）英寸的深部壁板直接钉为螺柱上。两层楼的房屋上的悬垂物约为16英寸。壁板将被重新粉刷。新窗户将闪烁。我没有闪烁。除了房屋中部，发现了窗户或其他地方的任何水入口，这些水将由新屋顶永久修复。

   开放的细胞泡沫（专门从事泡沫的承包商告诉我，井喷主要发生，主要粘附的干墙不良，而实木镶板则不会有问题，除了可能会消除一些泡沫的泄漏外，也许可以消除。

   泡沫会不会成为减轻两层钉子上两层钉子固有泄漏的良好空气屏障吗？

   北部纤维素的偏爱和南部的玻璃纤维是否与气候，梅森 - 迪克森线有关？

   再次感谢！

6. GBA Editor
   马丁·霍拉迪（Martin Holladay）|2016年7月28日下午01:56|#6

   Andy,
   听起来您的内部墙壁上有对角线船板硬木木板。这是相当不寻常的（而且非常漏水）。

   I wouldn't recommend either type of insulation for your walls. Ideally, your house needs a layer of exterior sheathing and a water-resistive barrier (WRB) before you consider insulating the walls. That work is expensive, because you would have to remove the siding to do it.

   如果您想知道我的建议，那么纤维素比泡沫更有意义。

7. 
   内森·斯普里格尔（Nathan Spriegel）|Jul 28, 2016 02:19pm|#7

   问题，您是否有旋钮和管线接线，还是您的电气升级？我不建议在旋钮和管子上安装绝缘材料。实际上，《国家电气法》明确禁止它（NEC 2014 394.12（5））。但是，我不知道有任何造成严重问题/大火的情况。

8. Expert Member
   Dana Dorsett|2016年7月28日下午4:20|#8

   Clapboards nailed directly to the studs with an air-leaky plank interior wall is a problem stackup. If you filled it with cellulose any wind-driven moisture that gets into the wall wicks in, soaked up by the cellulose like a sponge and there will almost certainly be places where it would be wet enough long enough that structural rot would set in. The paint will fail first , since the clabboards can't dry to the back side resulting in high vapor pressures when the sun warms it up, causing blistering & peeling, but that's just a symptom. Wintertime ,moisture drives from the interior would be redistributed by the wicking nature of the cellulose but with no way to dry it would result in high moisture content throughout.

   慢升上升开放式细胞泡沫不会更好 - 井喷将不是您的主要问题，但是泡沫的外侧会从内部和泡沫（不重新分布）中从蒸气扩散中收集冬季水分。甚至更快地破坏外部油漆。

   It's a real pain in the wallet, but the only way to safely insulate this wall is to add exterior foam sufficient for dew point control and add new siding, or to stuff it full of cellulose and add a housewrap detailed as an air barrier with new back ventilated siding (vinyl, or furring + new siding providing at least a 1/4" gap between the new siding and the housewrap, aka a "rainscreen" type assembly.)

   Simply filling the cavities is guaranteed to fail.

   纤维素与玻璃纤维nothing to do with the Mason-Dixon, but cellulose provides a bit of wintertime moisture buffering in cooler climates that is sometimes useful (or necessary). Under hot southern roof decks on attic floors cellulose performance is superior to fiberglass in the cooling season due to it's opacity to infra-red radiation (fiberglass is somewhat translucent to IR, and the hottest layer in the stackup is an inch or two into the fiberglass layer, hotter than the attic air). The difference at IRC 2015 code min R-values is somewhat academic, but when there's only 6" of fluff the performance difference is pretty real. Cellulose having a large recycled content, higher air retardency than fiberglass at open-blown densites makes it pretty much a universally better solution for attics. When dense packed into walls you get a slight performance edge out of 1.8lb or higher density fiberglass, due to higher R/inch and comparable or better air retardency than cellulose.