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Is this wall insulation idea ok for humid south?

timeisnotmoney| Posted inGeneral Questionson

House: built 1892 in Birmingham, AL. Currently little to no insulation anywhere. Exterior studs are 3.5″. Original pine siding (pattern 117). 11.5′ ceilings. Daikin multi-split system (2 zones) on bottom floor.

We’ve started renovating a few rooms and my idea for the insulation is (from the inside, with walls fully opened up) cut foil faced 1/2″ polyiso to fit in stud cavities and caulk in place all the way around the stud bay, pushed firmly up against the back of the siding. Install (properly) R-13 paper faced fiberglass bats on top of that.

Do you think this is a good plan of action. Also, do you think I would have moisture problems in the sandwich space between the polyiso and the back of the siding during the humid summer? My guess is no, since the siding lap joints aren’t sealed well.

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Replies

  1. GBA Editor
    Brian Pontolilo||#1

    Hi Time is not money,

    I like the sentiment behind your screen name. It would be nice to know your actual name too. It makes the forum a much friendlier place.

    当房屋没有护套或WRB时,最好在壁板和绝缘层之间创建空域。有多种方法可以做到这一点。我建议您从本文开始:Walls without Sheathing

  2. Expert Member
    Dana Dorsett||#2

    Brian所说的 - 它需要气隙作为毛细管断裂和排水空间。半英寸的缝隙足够了 - 甚至1/4英寸就足够了,但是将1英寸的半英寸polyiso沿每个侧面切割为垫片,以使填充表远离壁板更容易远离1/4英寸的垫片。。

    Cut the foam a 3/8-1/2" narrower than the cavity to make it an easy fit, and use a thin bead of polyurethane caulk to glue the sheets to the spacer strips, and seal any horizontal seams of the foil faced foam with a temperature rated HVAC tape. Then use can-foam to fill in the gaps along the edges to the studs as a more secure air seal.

    半英寸的Polyiso并不总是足够刚性,以提供足够的阻力来压缩BATT,以使其远离螺柱之间的中间壁板,除非Batt的腔深度为3.25“ -3.5”。但是泡沫到壁板的腔不应超过3.5英寸,或者不会完全填充空间。使用3/4”或1“用于切割的纸张可能会更好地工作,具体取决于完整腔深度。如果螺柱的确只有3.5英寸(4.0“在1892年更为常见),则只有半英寸的垫片和半英寸的泡沫,您只会看到2.5英寸的空腔,在这种情况下拆分高密度R21玻璃纤维0R R23岩石羊毛或3英寸的声音清天气更合适。通过一些练习,将5.5英寸的标称HD Batt拆分为两个2.5英寸 +摩擦均可以工作,但是隔音架(岩石或玻璃纤维)(岩石或玻璃纤维))劳动会更少。

    在外部面对箔纸的泡沫上,可以从水分控制的角度使用牛皮纸面对的板块,面对面与墙板旁边的面孔,但面部的人使检查更加困难。毫无疑问是优选的,并且内部不需要墙板上的标准乳胶内部蒸气延迟器。

    当您打开墙时,值得花时间用乳胶底漆涂料涂上壁板的背面。如果剩下裸露的木头,则壁板中的水分循环会导致前侧的油漆失败,甚至导致壁板分裂,现在它不再有一个深空的空腔来干燥。即使在隔热后,当后置一个世纪的外部油漆价值仍然可能失败,但风险也要低得多,壁板板卷曲或分裂的风险也要降低。

  3. timeisnotmoney||#3

    Thanks for all the info guys. Very helpful.

    Yes, the studs are 3.5" rough cut. I was surprised as well. Some studs are full 4" in another part of the house, so I'm assuming they just used whatever was available in the area at the time.

    ---
    旁边:

    Is it fair to say (generally speaking) that the lack of insulation in a house like this is a big factor in how it's been able to stand for so long with basically zero mold or water damage? Having no insulation may be detrimental to the comfort of the occupants, but it seems like a bonus when it comes to the health of the structure itself - allowing it to fully dry in both directions and not giving any condensation points.

    要明确地说,当我说“缺乏隔热材料”时,我的意思是过去缺少某人,并用烤面包,纤维素,泡沫塞满了墙壁,而没有清楚地绘制出它将如何影响结构。几年前,我在我所在的地区看到了很多旧房屋,纤维素被吹入墙壁腔,我一直认为这只是窗台上的湿杂乱,并且会导致过早失败,而从未开始绝缘。

    1. Jon_R||#6

      I do find it odd that you are proposing an exterior side vapor barrier and an interior side Class II/III vapor retarder in a climate that requires neither.

      Air sealing is critical - use a blower door (or equivalent) to verify air sealing. Consider two air barriers.

      1. timeisnotmoney||#7

        I was basing this design on the LSU university wall construction advice for hot-humid and mixed zones:https://www.lsuagcenter.com/topics/family_home/home/design_construction/construction/foundation%20floors%20roof%20walls/exterior%20walls%20roof/walls%20wall%20covering/ideal-wall-assemblies-for-hothumid-and-mixedhumid-climates

        I think we are classified as mixed climate. I may have easily misunderstood something in their design though.

        I liked the kraft paper for making sure the batts don't sag over time. It's more of an installation helper than anything else. Given that, would it suffice to make a long vertical cut down the face of the kraft paper with a razor knife to open that up and increase flow once installed?

        1. Jon_R||#8

          我相信您靠近炎热/潮湿的边界,因此我会保持保守,并选择在这两个区域效果很好的墙壁设计。

          考虑EPS和NO KRAFT纸张,看看与其他一些来源相比如何。您可以使用网状雨屏产品来维持泡沫和壁板之间的通风缝隙。

        2. jameshowison||#9

          Consider Rockwool batts? Easier to install well, since they give a friction fit. Still end up with itchy bits, but for me not nearly as bad as fiberglass.

          有人想到是否将Intello用作内部空气屏障(后面有3.5英寸板)可能比Cut-N-Cobble更容易?我检查了“无护套”文章,但我想知道如果使用岩锅,是否需要气隙?那不是与使用网状雨屏产品非常相似吗?

  4. mdesloge||#4

    我在类似的船上(气候区2,在1895年的房屋中没有护套),面临着同样的困境。我很好奇您是否打算拉动搭扣,从外面进行绝缘和护套?我没有任何数字可以支持这一点,但是在某个时候(内部装饰与外部,两个故事,一个等等),这不是更便宜吗?如果这是一个DIY项目,那么我完全理解从内部,房间旁工作。我实际上以类似的方式阻止墙壁绝缘,直到我可以从外部进来 - 缺乏适当的WRB总是让我感到困扰。

    1. timeisnotmoney||#5

      “我很好奇您是否打算拉动搭扣,从外面进行绝缘和护套?”

      费用将使我们的处境摆脱困境。我们房子上的壁板适合其年龄,但脆弱。因此,如果不损坏它的大部分,就不得不将其替换为新的,就无法将其删除。图案#117壁板每板脚非常昂贵。从内部进行干墙和装饰的内部成本至少是3倍。

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