预科窗口打开

承包商兼建筑培训师比尔·罗宾逊:在准备粗糙的开口时，寻找损坏情况是很重要的，而潮湿是主要的罪魁祸首。为了检查这里有没有损坏，我要用凿子把它插进木头里，撬开它。把木头弄成这样。这意味着它是结实的木材。如果它碎了，你就得换一个。你在这里看到的毛毡纸是有声音的——它的背面实际上是固体的。当我移开壁板的时候，我没有切断它，所以我不会太担心水会在后面。毛毡纸的形状相当好。窗户开得很大，正好能装下这扇窗户。它是垂直的，水平的，方形的，当我安装窗户时，我可以做一些调整。 So we’re good to go. [Narrator: Bill fills in missing gaps of sheathing around the rough opening. Then he vacuums all the dust and dirt so that he’ll have no trouble installing the rigid and self-adhesive flashings.] This is vinyl coil stock. It’s real thin, and what’s nice about it is that it pretty much won’t react with moisture or anything. I cut this in narrow strips and slide it behind the siding. Any water that might get inside the window opening will be forced to the outside. I work the coil stock down behind the siding carefully and use a little pry bar to pull the siding away from the felt paper so that I can get the vinyl coil stock behind there. It’s kind of a tight fit, but I need to get it in there. So, I’ve done the bottom with the vinyl coil stock. I’m going to do both sides but leave the top open so that the flashing tape will actually stick to the raw framing itself on the wall. Everything installed while you’re flashing should be installed shingle style, which means what’s at the bottom should be covered by what’s above it. Next, put in the self-adhesive flashing. The first piece will be here on the sill, overlapping the vinyl coil stock, and it will roll into the sill a little bit. Self-adhesive flashing has release paper on it. I’m going to position it where I want it to be with a little bit wrapping up at each end. Get it to stick, pull the release paper off, and keep it in a straight line. Readjust it as you go. If you take all the release paper off at one time, you’ll get it wrapped up into a sort of snowball or flashing ball. With the corner in, make cuts and fold it out along the face of the wall. Whenever you’re applying self-adhesive flashing, it’s critical to use a J-roller; that’s going to make it stick. Next, flash the corners. [Narrator: The flashing material is 6×6 flexible self-adhesive squares. Bill uses them to seal up the corners. They’re a little tricky to work with, but after he’s got them into position, he J-rolls them for a good seam. Next, he flashes the sides of the rough opening with more self-adhesive flashing material.] I have the side jambs flashed before I put the window in. Add a corner shield at the top for a little bit of extra insurance to keep water out of there. Now that the top corners are in, it’s time for the sill pan. The sill pan is especially important because it’s going to drain any moisture that gets inside the opening to the outside. The sill pan is pretty cool. On the back is self-adhesive flashing that sticks to the frame. There’s some foam in the back that won’t absorb moisture. That’s going to set into the inside of the window. Any water that gets inside will be forced to the outside—but here’s the cool part. This has some sort of wicking material that, when it faces outside, will drain water to the outside even if the sill is sloped backward, toward the inside of the house. [Narrator: To ensure the window and rough sill aren’t damaged by leaks, Bill wants pan flashing running from the inside of the sill, out and down the sheathing. The flashing isn’t quite wide enough, so he cuts strips from the sill material and layers them. Like everything else here, he starts at the bottom and works his way up, shingle style.] Now that the filler piece is in, I’m going to put in the sill pan piece itself. I’ve already cut it to length. Take off part of the release paper, pull it out of the way, set it down firm here, and pull the paper out slowly to keep it straight. With the sill pan in, it’s time to dry-fit the window. If the dry fit looks good, it’s time to take it out and do the permanent install.

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安装窗口

承包商兼施工培训师比尔·罗宾逊:现在我已经准备好安装窗户了，第一步是在安装法兰或钉法兰的背面涂一圈兼容密封胶。旁白:比尔用嵌缝剂堵住了预先凿好的洞，这样当他安装窗户的时候，他就会看到窗户被挤出来了。这就告诉他，钉翼是密封在建筑周围的。他沿着顶部和两侧填缝，但他没有在底部法兰上填缝，这样即使有水进来，也会有地方出来;这就是平底锅的作用。我在安装法兰的背面涂上了密封胶。我可以把窗户固定好，放在中间。我在寻找挤压，它从边上的预孔中出来了。这意味着窗户的密封性很好。它也出现在顶部。 Now I come down the right side, and I can see the sealant is coming out on the edge and out of the prepunched holes. Next, l put a fastener in the upper right-hand corner to position the window and check for plumb, level, and square. I set it snug. The window will actually stay in place now. So, that’s the first fastener in. The next thing I want to do is check for plumb, level, and square. In fact, because I leveled the sill in the first place and set the window right down on it, I don’t have to check for level again. But I do want to check for square, so I’m going to pull the diagonals. When the numbers are equal, or within an eighth of an inch or so, that’s good enough. What I do now is put in the second fastener, in the opposite corner. I want to snug it down, but not too tight, so that I don’t distort the flange. With the second fastener in, I check for diagonals one more time. The final thing I want to do is go inside and make sure the window functions properly. Since it opens fine, I’ll continue installing the rest of the fasteners according to the manufacturer’s instructions. I’m using truss-head screws, which have a nice flat bottom and a low profile, and will hold the window in place. These windows are molded together; you can see along the top here, the manufacturer says to put a screw between each one of these places where the tape is, to help hold the window in place. I’ll make sure they’re all bunched close together there. That’s it; the window is in. All I need to do now is flash it, install the casing on the outside, air-seal on the inside, and we’re done.

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安装挡板和内饰

承包商兼建筑培训师比尔·罗宾逊:现在窗户已经安装好了，我们准备好闪光了。如果你还记得，我把壁板剪短了3英寸多一点。我用的是4英寸的自粘闪光灯。其实是丁基胶带。我用我的切割台来得到尺寸。桌子是48英寸，胶带也要48英寸。一定要先移除一些释放纸，这样一旦你把它放到合适的位置，你就可以使用它了。因为这是一个应用安装法兰，我需要确保我滚动闪光胶带到窗框上大约半英寸，以确保我有一个水密密封。我用速度方块把胶带推到框架上，并重叠到框架上。我把这部分切下来，让它平躺; same thing at the bottom here. Repeat the process on the other side. Remember, everything gets a J-roller. [Narrator: Next, Bill cuts small pieces from the same flexible corner flashing to seal off the corners at the top of the window.] The first corner goes in here, and it wraps around. [Narrator: He also fashions a small piece to cover the joint where the two windows are molded together—another precaution.] Now the rigid flashing goes over the top of the window. I apply a bead of sealant to the back of it and center it. It will take any rain and deflect it away from the window. I put in a couple of fasteners up here to hold this in place and snug it up. The final step for flashing is to put the head flashing over the top. [Narrator: Because of the narrow space between the window and the soffit, Bill uses the shoot board to trim the top off the casing to fit the opening.] Now that I have the casing set up around the window, I use plastic shims to space it. The gap’s pretty good all around, so I fasten it in place. I’m using corrosion-resistant trim-head screws. The screw head is small so that it won’t leave a large dimple in the face of the material. [Narrator: Bill’s careful to set the screws far enough away from the window so that he doesn’t drive them through the mounting flange.] Remember, I left this intentional gap around the perimeter here. I put backer rod in that gap and then fill it with sealant. So, that’s the window caulk to the casing. Next I seal the window casing to the siding. I like to push the tube rather than pull it because I can see the sealant coming out the front of the nozzle on the caulk gun and I can tell I’m filling the joint much better that way. That finishes up the exterior install, and it’s watertight. Now I go inside to air-seal it. The best way to air-seal from the inside is with a polyurethane spray foam, one that’s good for use with windows. The main thing I’m trying to do here is stop air flow from the inside or the outside—not so much insulating as air-sealing. I want a nice even bead along the side and the top with spray foam. I don’t need to do that along the bottom because the sill pan has a foam gasket along the inside that will provide an air seal. If it didn’t have that, I’d have to spray-foam the bottom. That’s it. The window is watertight on the outside and air-sealed on the inside. It’s ready for drywall and trim, and then we’re done.