看来我们有R9，并希望获得R49的总评级。阁楼地板托梁上有很多良好的存储空间，并带有实木地板。We hate to lose all that space (and especially if we resell think it’s a selling point) to blow in. I’m looking at DIYing but find so much contradictory information and opinions online it’s hard to sort it all out to a novice and first time home owner. I will tell you where I live we’re in zone 6, so it does get cold here. And it does get warm in the summer too, so we want to insulate against summer heat on roof and to keep cold in from a/c in summer AND more importantly keep heat from escaping given the little bit of R9 there now.

We also only have a carport and shop in the back with no garage so storage room/space is at a premium, so we hate to lose some of the only storage space in the home there is by blowing in, which is what my general contractor friend strongly recommends (and he said go to R38 but after researching online, we really ought try to get to R49).

I’m so ignorant I may sound stupid to some of you, so please be gentle; and all of the contradicting information on the web makes me feel totally lost and confused. One question I have is if we know we have R9, does that mean if our goal is R49, we need to add 40 R (whatever the material), or at least 29 to get to R38?

We’ve seen several threads recommending what I believe is known as poly iso insulation decking (but it appears that usually goes on the outside of roofs under sheathing or commercial installs, or on the attic “ceiling” although we do see a few google image searches where we see double-decker 4″ attic floor installs.

We think this could be a smart solution to our unique dilemma (having so little storage space at this property over all, not wanting to lose that little extra).

因此，我看到其他人在某些线程上说，在​​胶合板甲板下面的顶级桁架和弦之间安装反射性的泡沫聚苯乙烯安装（主要是为了在夏季反映太阳能吸收的能源效率），这对于我们来说可能是一件明智的事情。出于我们的愿望的原因。尽管大部分是通过密封空气泄漏（如果有的话）并绝缘阁楼地板，这也可能有助于最大程度地减少热量损失。

So here is what I’ve envisioned to preserve the storage space and at least get better insulation.
1.把泡沫或塑料椽trus之间的挡板s chords for soffit vents OR use rigid styrofoam board to create soffit chutes at roof edges only
2.将刚性的泡沫聚苯乙烯绝缘材料作为辐射屏障，朝着白色的侧面屋顶和金属侧面的阁楼地板，这可能会通过创建酸the架来消除第一步
3. blow in to corners of attic to where webbing supports start, and then use styrofoam boards to contain the blown in on both sides to a four feet center margin exactly (or install some, and then blow into space), preserving a four foot width for the poly iso decking to use double deckers);
4.一旦将整个屋顶用刚性的styro插入屋顶上的after子，然后将其吹入角落，然后将poly ISO绝缘层置于4英寸的床单和双层板，然后在双层板的边缘，然后使用某种类型在双层甲板和R23.6 Poly ISO 4英寸甲板之间的接头喷雾密封剂

Yes, I know that’s more expensive and MORE work than just blowing the whole thing in, and in some ways redundant, but here I see that I’d have radiant heat protection/barrier to keep the whole house cooler (no shade on it from outside) due to higher elevation direct UV and sun (very sunny in summer usually all summer) which will preserve A/C bill and carbon waste. And the rigid styro foam radiant barrier rafter chutting will preserve the roof from ice damming WHILE serving as radiant barrier in summer and allow the edge blow ins rather easily without worry of clogging venting. (rigid radiant barrier installed on rafters). And then the decking with seal would preserve storage space and with a double R23.6 plus the R9 existing with the edges at the rigid styrofoam walls holding the blown in corners perpendicular to the attic floor being sealed with some kind of spray foam, it would minimize the chance of ice damming from differential heat leaking.

Yes, more expensive, yes more labor. Yes lots of cursing. BUT in the end, I think it will pay off over time in saved energy and less carbon footprint. It is a 1896 square foot house and we’d never intend to finish a room in the attic. And then too the gable vents and passive roof vent (in addition to soffit vents) would all work together to still prevent ice damming, and with a radiant heat barrier AND thermal attic roof floor barrier would also keep the house in general cooler in summer.

这是过度的吗？除了口袋书以外，我的风险是什么？

似乎也可以选择打击，辐射屏障/chut板和双层隔热层，鉴于R值的爆炸值达到R38/.49，将会毫无意义地将空气泄漏到阁楼上。边缘的问题以及在边缘密封的固体甲板也将消除屋顶的热量泄漏。

我的经纪人坚持我们就会失去更多的热量从门and windows than we will wasting our money retrofitting the attic insulation. My contractor friends says my realtor friend is stupid. There is a basement walkout door and front door and side door. All windows aren’t original but are double pain and pella and seem installed well. Vinyl siding too; not sure how well insulated walls are, and really don’t want to plastic wrap my windows as despite my allergies, I’d like to turn off the air and heat (even in winter) and get fresh air inside (plan on installing hepa material in all screens). And maybe next summer, I’d work on replacing those doors. The front door seems like solid wood (they don’t make them like they used to), but the basement walkout door seems like a standard foam filled door, as does the side door. If I just made sure the weather stripping around them was tight and that the latch plate is installed tight (plan to install latches), that would deal with some of the energy loss, yes? And windows seal tight although are not triple paned and probably will never fix windows nor do I want them to be plastic sealed shut. But I do have a friend with a house of similar age and what he tells me his gas and electric bills are without plastic sealing shut, I shudder to think what my budget looks like next year. Hence ounce of prevention talk now please.

So, your thoughts please? I know that’s A LOT A LOT.